NeXe Lights
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| I got this fixture today with a clear bulb. After putting it together I plugged it in, to nothing, not ballast hum at all. I used my multimeter to check the continuity of the whole fixture, and everything was fine, none of the wires had a infinite resistance value. Additionally, the ballast seems brand new, no rust, oxidation or burn marks. I do not know why the fixture is not working.
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« Last Edit: May 18, 2025, 12:08:14 PM by NeXe Lights »
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WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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HID, LPS, and preheat fluorescents forever!!!!!!
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| I think one thing you could do is to cover up the photocell with an object. The fixture should turn on if the photocell detects darkness.
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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Multisubject
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All lights are created equal
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| Did you check the resistance of the primary and secondary windings? It should definitely be readable.
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NeXe Lights
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| Yes, both give a resistance, 4.1 ohms on the primary and 4.5 ohms on the secondary.
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NeXe Lights
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I think one thing you could do is to cover up the photocell with an object. The fixture should turn on if the photocell detects darkness.
I have already tried this, but it was to no avail. |
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Multisubject
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| If I were you, I would remove everything from the fixture, then, on a table, connect the ballast and the socket. If the lamp doesn't light, it is either the ballast or the socket. If it does light, then add the photocell. If it stops working when you add the photocell, then that is the problem. If you can get it working outside of the fixture where everything is easy to see, then you should be able to find the problem.
You have my prayers that it isn't the ballast...
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joseph_125
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| I'd try to bypass or use another photocontrol, or remove the ballast and socket and try it run it directly.
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RRK
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| You shall measure the current at the input of the luminaire. Lamp lit or not, a properly working HX or CWA ballast will consume some magnetizing current. A small clamp style multimeter is an indispensable tool for such debug work.
As you have tested ballast windings OK, if no hum no current then the wiring is broken or photocell is bad or no photocell and no bypass.
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NeXe Lights
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I took out the ballast and, without the photocell, plugged it in with the lamp. Nothing happened. I took out the old lamp socket and put in the other one I had, but when I turned it on, nothing happened. However, I left it on for about 30 seconds while I got my multimeter to check for EF. After checking, the lamp just randomly started. I will have to test it with the stock socket and then the PC.  |
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NeXe Lights
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| I put the fixture back together and it works fine. But I have noticed the bulb has a flickering about every second. Does anyone know why the bulb is flickering like that? It's a flicker where the bulb seems to dim for a split second.
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wide-lite 1000
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Try another bulb  |
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Collector,Hoarder,Pack-rat! Clear mercury Rules!!
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NeXe Lights
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| I do not have any other bulbs, but I only ran into this problem AFTER I put the fixture together and tested it. When I was testing the bulb and socket alone, the flickering didn't happen.
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joseph_125
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| Hmm, maybe try bypassing the PC?
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NeXe Lights
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| That's what I thought. I will try using a different PC, but that won't work I'll bypass it. And if that still won't work I'll get another bulb and try that.
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WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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HID, LPS, and preheat fluorescents forever!!!!!!
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I put the fixture back together and it works fine. But I have noticed the bulb has a flickering about every second. Does anyone know why the bulb is flickering like that? It's a flicker where the bulb seems to dim for a split second.
One reason that the lamp might be flickering is possibly due to the variations in mains voltage. For HX ballasts such as the one in your yardblaster, changes in line voltage have a direct impact on lamp current, lamp brightness, and total power draw. For example, if your line voltage reads about 110V 60Hz instead of 120V 60Hz, your fixture might be drawing around 150W on a 110V 60Hz supply while on the proper 120V 60Hz supply, it should draw around 200W or thereabouts. I highly recommend monitoring your line voltage to see if you observe any significant variations. |
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« Last Edit: May 18, 2025, 08:59:49 PM by WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA »
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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