Hi everyone! So today I purchased 4 new old stock general electric F60T12 Slimline tubes! I am quite excited abotu themm, despite not having any fixture to use them in currently. They have FA8 pins, so a single large pin on each side. I have a few ideas how I could make my own sockets for them, so this is not really a problem. I am more curious about their current and voltage ratings and such, so I can choose a suitable ballast to run them. If anyone has any input regarding their operating voltage and current, I would be really happy I have looked for datasheets, but unfortunately cannot find any. I have some ballasts I Can experiment with, so in the worst case scenario, I can play around and measure the current and voltage until I get the desired lamp power. I'm assuming these tubes have some sort of ignition strip internally, since they are single pinned. My plans for these mainly, is me thinking something along the lines of making my own fixture for them, I do have both the equipment and knowledge how to make sheet metal pieces become the shape of a industrial light fixture

Is 60 the power (in watts) or the length (in inches)? If it is the length, then I need the wattage and I can let you know (or vice versa).

Or you could just look yourself, whatever:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vRyPSC_n1dhry8yQsygp1qXoub7YLaBoZcg-yZD2EY6nsw-XBSPN3IN666SN__ljA/pubhtml

60 is the length in inches. The lamp wattage is 50 watts.

That’s an incredibly nice spreadsheet you’ve made, thank you! That will be of great help.

Well it appears that particular tube size isn't on the spreadsheet yet. It is a T12 tube, so around ~.43A, and if I were to guess around 125V across the tube (in between 48" ~100V and 72" ~150V). The best choice would be to use a 56W 60" T8 HO (I don't actually know what they are called) instant start ballast. That being said, I haven’t ever seen or heard of one of those being made, so you might have to make do with a 40W 48” T12 instant start ballast, which will underdrive the tube slightly. According to Fulham, a Fulham WH4 can light a 60” T12 tube, but those are notorious for underdriving.

If you don’t want to underdrive the tube, you could use a 57W 72” T12 ballast with some sort of limiting device to decrease the power down to 50W, but that sounds like a lot of work.

If you ever do find the actual specs, do let me know so I can put it on the sheet.

I had a look at your spreadsheet and realised the same hehe. Very well made though! I’m going to save that so I can refer to it when I need

I may have some more tube data to help you add there too on European tubes since I collect a lot of those too!

It is indeed a really rare size and that’s what made me interested in them, I’ve never seen F60T12 before

I think I’ll give a European 36/40W, or 58W ballast with a series limiting of some sort a shot. I suspect the 40W will work fine We have 230 volt mains so I am hoping the tube will successfully strike even without an auto transformer ballast. If I’m not entirely mistaken these tubes have a coating on the inner glass that helps them strike capacitvely. These don’t have filaments that can be heated since they are single pin tubes, so capacitive start is the only way

I’ll have to  experiment and try different things out, and I’ll definitely be sure to report my findings! I did manage to find FA8 sockets for sale, so I bought some but they won’t arrive until the 16th June. The tubes should arrive next week, maybe on Tuesday. I found them on eBay too, and I probably paid way more than they were actually worth, but they’re quite rare and they are 50’s vintage I think, so I’m  mostly okay with that. I’m excited to have a play around and build a fixture for them

I think I’ll have a look at purchasing some sheet metal this weekend! With my equipment I won’t be able to make a 5 foot fixture in one piece, I’ll have to make it in at least 2 pieces and maybe weld them together in the middle.

I’m excited

Oh my! I forgot that you live in Sweden. For some reason I just assume everyone is American lol. That changes plans a bit. If it can indeed strike on its own at 230V, that would be excellent.

Definitely do let me know if you have more specs, most of the fluorescent tubes on the spreadsheet are American, so it isn’t particularly diverse.

You could get a capacitor of just the right value to put in series with a 58W ballast to limit the current, but finding the right capacitance would be a pain, and it might actually shorten lamp life due to capacitive ballasting, so I wouldn’t bother. You could also wind another small choke to put in series with the 58W ballast to limit current, but that would take even longer. While a 40W ballast will underdrive the tube, I don’t think it would have any significant effect on the lamp life, so I personally would go with that (just my opinion).

Fa8 sockets in the US are pretty common, I am surprised to hear that they are so hard to get over there, though they are vintage so that might play a role.

If you can do sheet metal work, you can do a lot with regards to lighting! I wish you luck building this fixture, and I look forward to seeing it in action!

The sockets should be easily obtainable off eBay
A 2xF32T8 electronic instant-start ballast wired for overdrive in a single lamp will run them at something close to the correct current. (the multi-voltage 120-277v 50/60hz models are very common)

Only issue would be cost of shipping

I'm pretty sure you can still buy electronic slimline ballasts new, most of them are rated for something like 4-8ft lamps.

I'm pretty sure slimline lamps just use brute force high voltage to start without any starting electrodes or conductive coatings, here's a Universal 875-L-TC-P cold temp f60 ballast that lists the open circuit voltage as 525v. https://www.ebay.com/itm/234280436335

A 240-480v transformer and a pair of 1x20w ballasts in series would probably work, or maybe a 35w mh ballast and a sox ignitor?

Most american ballasts have the capacitor in series with the lamp(s) and it works fine as long as they use decent quality capacitors and there's enough inductance in the circuit to limit the current spikes.