Changed the kitchen lights from magnetic to electronic instant and I also changed the switch. I'm using ELBIRU brand of electronic ballast. If you notice the first light that is not touching the ceiling that is because I had to cut some trunking as the 'bed' for the mounting screws since the new fitting did not match the existing hole in the ceiling.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E1efT8Dfdjc&feature=youtu.be

For what you did this? If the magnetic ballast and the former lamps, operated well, so there are no reasons to replace them.
Also, if the former wall switch was OK, there are no reason to replace it.

The brand I'm using for the ballast is Elbiru would not use other brands of instant start like Philips they kill the tube within a couple of weeks. This particular brand I been using in my bedroom wall light before I changed to dimmable. So far it had little wear on the tube even after as many as 4 switch cycles per day and why I changed it...to suit the new switch and LED bulb in the bathroom  . The old switch was becoming hard to push maybe the moving parts are rusty. But so far the tube does not show blackening after a month. Rest assured the rest of the lighting is still switch start no intention of changing them. I may take video of them again.

Since all instant start electronic ballast with 4 wire (Used only for the lamp filament fusing mechanism at lamp EOL), operates at exactly the same manner of simply applying HV on the cold cathodes to start the lamp, variations in lamp life on different instant start electronic ballasts aren't related to the starting mothed, but to other reasons:

1. The electrodes that are used in the lamp: Triple coil electrodes that can withstand cold starting better than the usual double and single coil electrodes, because this electrode shape, is actually a compromise between the filament style electrodes of the fluorescent lamps, and the beehive style electrodes of LPS lamps, that can withstand cold starting much better, so thats why LPS lamps usually have longer life than fluorescent lamps in one start per day.

2. The wattage that the ballast operates the lamp. If the lamp is underdriven, so the lamp will actually operate with cold cathodes, resulting in a heavy sputtering. If the lamp operates at full wattage, the sputtering will be low. If the lamp is overdriven, then the overloading on the electronic will cause heavy sputtering.

I bought my Hyundai Teva generic CFL that I have, at 25.4.2010 , and is still operational after almost 3 years, despite frequently switching, partially because it have triple coil electrodes, and also because it is operating in my table lamp base up, so the heat from the tube, don't heats the ballast, and keeps it cool, so the ballast don't overheats.

On the other hand, the 8W T5 lamps on the 2 lamps electronic instant start fixture, in my mother bathroom, burns out every several months. Beside frequent switching, the electrodes aren't suitable for cold starting, and also: I suspecting that the ballast underdrives the lamps.

@dor: These instant start do apply quite high heating current during applying the ignition voltage and during the lamp glow phase, so the electrodes are quite quickly heated up.
That is the difference towards US 1 wire per lamp end style, where the only heat the electrode receive is from the discharge alone, so they operate the discharge in the cold cathode mode for way longer.

Some ballasts even do not generate high enough voltage to ignite the lamp, so the arc ignite only after the electrodes heat up, so the electrode stress is nearly nonexistent.
So you may meet ballasts killing lamps one after the other, on the other hand another ballast keep them in good shape even after years of frequent switching use.
But the differences are mainly piece by piece (given by the component tolerances), so you never know, what would your new ballast behave.

If you observe first a dimmer glow with blue ends and only after some time the lamp brighten up, the ballast for sure start the lamp with cold electrodes (the bluish end glow) and it take it quite long to heat up the electrodes (so it is visible as gradual increase in the brightness), so such ballast would kill lamps quite fast when switched frequently ON and OFF.

But if it light the lamp up to full brightness (corresponding to the lamp temperature) really instantly, you can not say the degree of electrode damage, it could be none, as well as quite considerable.