Author Topic: Durable Lamp Etches  (Read 301 times)
Multisubject
Member
*****
Offline

View Posts
View Gallery


WWW
Durable Lamp Etches « on: January 24, 2026, 07:18:35 PM » Author: Multisubject
Glass lamps have "etches". But are they ever really etches? No, they are stamps. With ink. We never actually etch into the glass of a lamp. If we did, then they would be very very durable and last practically forever (like they do with some vacuum tubes), but we don't. Anyway, they don't last forever and can just just wipe right off if they are old enough. This obviously isn't good if you are trying to replace or identify a lamp that has an illegible etch (I've been there).

Sometimes there are etches that are on the inside of the glass, that way they can't rub off. That works great, why don't we do internal etches anymore? Maybe they are not always practical for all lamp shapes. I would also imagine that could be problematic for sodium lamps with a high vacuum outer envelope.

If you wanna get really fancy you could do those ceramic decals that are found on labware and the like. They are still on the outside, but very very durable (I can't even scrape them off with HSS lathe tool). These decals are not expensive, and can be fired at the same time that the lamp is being annealed (assuming the lamp gets annealed).

I feel like a lamp company having durable etches would be a nice low-effort edge over competitors. And nice for us too. Idk
Logged

"The only stupid question is the one left unasked"
Public Lamp Spec Sheet

rapidstart_12
Member
**
Offline

Gender: Male
View Posts
View Gallery


@rs12official
Re: Durable Lamp Etches « Reply #1 on: January 24, 2026, 08:26:59 PM » Author: rapidstart_12
In my experience, the newer stamped etches tend to hold up pretty good. I have no problem when I am cleaning newer lamps. However, pre-1990s GE lamps do give me trouble. I’m not sure if they were always like this, but those etches wipe off CLEAN.
Logged
James
Member
*****
Offline

Gender: Male
View Posts
View Gallery


WWW
Re: Durable Lamp Etches « Reply #2 on: February 01, 2026, 04:50:14 PM » Author: James
In fact, the reason they were called etches is really because the ink was physically etched into the glass surface.  Unfortunately though the process is quite critical, and very often not done well.

The ink itself is a highly complex material uniquely prepared by the lamp industry, via an elegant chemical process that takes about 2 weeks to complete.  It basically involves dissolving the oxides of silver, lead and sometimes also copper into an organic syrup, laced with boric acid, which has the most wonderful smell you never forget after you have been in any lamp plant.  The ink is applied to the glass via conventional rubber stamping methods, and then burned in with a gas flame.  That is the critical part.  The temperature has to be high enough that the glass becomes soft, and triggers a reaction in which the lead borate chemically etches its surface, and draws the silver and/or copper ions below the surface of the glass.  The problem is that slightly excessive heating will cause the glass to deform.  It is very difficult to find the right balance, because there can be variations of one or two tenths of a millimetre in glass wall thicknesses from one bulb to the next, and the thinner bulbs are prone to deformation.  To avoid that, most setters of the Sealex machines err on the side of caution, and tend not to set the etching fires quite hot enough.  The result is that the etching reaction does not proceed fully, and the ink sometimes be rubbed away.

Many years ago this reached such a problem that too many lamps were losing their etches, which was considered a safety issue because the customer might not be able to read the wattage and know if they were installing a lamp within the the power rating of their fixtures.  The various standardising bodies such as the IEC and ANSI then developed a mandatory test for the robustness of the etch, which was taken into the IEC 61 standard for incandescent lamps and to this day has been copied over to most other lamp standards.  In the factory we have to take a soft cloth, soak it with hexane (a solvent for the ink syrup), and rub the etch softly for 15 seconds.  After testing it must still be visible.  I do think that since the 1970s most lamps probably meet this requirement, but of course we all know several exceptions where it has not been etched firmly enough.

GE lamps were another matter.  Some time ago they tried to shift to different ink types as a way of getting rid of the lead content, for employee safety reasons in handling the lead borate marking paste.  They developed a black air-drying ink based on copper oxide which did not have to be burned into the glass.  Some years later Philips also developed an air-drying ink with a golden appearance, which was rather better.  And Sylvania developed red colour inks which were extremely robust, but contained cadmium borate which also had to be dropped after a few years due to the environmental restrictions.

The reason internal etches was dropped was quite simple, because it was found that they can cause chemical contamination of the lamp atmosphere and lead to reduced life.

The problem with the glass frit decals is the same as the etch materials - they require high temperature firing.  That is fine for heavy-walled borosilicate lab glassware, but very difficult to control for 0.5mm thick soda-lime glass bulbs and tubes.  Also the speed of applying the decals is too slow and not really compatible with high speed automated production. 
Logged
Multisubject
Member
*****
Offline

View Posts
View Gallery


WWW
Re: Durable Lamp Etches « Reply #3 on: February 01, 2026, 05:10:43 PM » Author: Multisubject
@James
Thank you for all of that information! I had no idea that this would be a regulated thing with requirements.

Another alternative is to stamp them on the metal ends of the tube, or metal base of the bulb. I have seen laser etched labels on lamp bases as well. Well hopefully modern etches hold up well.
Logged

"The only stupid question is the one left unasked"
Public Lamp Spec Sheet

James
Member
*****
Offline

Gender: Male
View Posts
View Gallery


WWW
Re: Durable Lamp Etches « Reply #4 on: February 01, 2026, 05:35:46 PM » Author: James
Indeed base etching or stamping was often also done, but mainly for lower volume lamps made at slower speeds.  On the highest speed lines for GLS and FL lamps, glass etching was the most common.  In the 1990s some types of ink for inkjet printers were developed that had excellent initial adhesion - but being polymer based tended to fade during lamp life.
Logged
Print 
© 2005-2026 Lighting-Gallery.net | SMF 2.0.19 | SMF © 2021, Simple Machines | Terms and Policies