I am looking at getting these and want to make sure I have this all right.

Will these starters;
work with this ballast;
running F40T12s?

According to the specification it should work together.

 hello yes the starter works for that ballast, but since that ballast is no longer made or Imported. I wwould
 recommend Thermal cut out starters, save the ballast from EOL lamps. such as GE watch Dog FS-4 or Sylvania Cop 40
  those have button to push in up on lamp replacement.

Thank you very much for the replies, that helps a lot!

I agree with funkybulb, you’re better off getting the ones that are still in production as these likely have warranty or some sort of tech support.

I agree with funkybulb, you’re better off getting the ones that are still in production as these likely have warranty or some sort of tech support.

Well, the support would be the same as with the old ballast: "Does not work? so get a new one and just replace it..."

I have one more question, I am looking into getting some T12 Sockets as well.

I have my eye on these neat sockets.

My question is, would the quality and life of them be questionable or would it hold up well?

Shunted lamp holders are for instant start only.  Non-shunted can be used with any kind, but you just save a little wire using shunted if you're going to put in an instant start ballast anyway.

No, I'm not.  It was going to be in a Preheat.  Thanks for the reply though.

Anyway why o you need shunted for Instant Start ? Do you shorten lamp life if you only connect 1 pin ?

Anyway why o you need shunted for Instant Start ? Do you shorten lamp life if you only connect 1 pin ?

The losses would be a bit higher (heating up a part of the cathode, what does not contribute to the electron emission) moreover the cathode usually start to be consumed from the connected side, so after the emission mix get consumed on a section, this section only heat up without any use for that heat. Connecting both sides you reduce these losses, about 1..2W difference on a F32T8.

And reliability could be lower (with shunted sockets there are two ways to get the current to the arc root). And in an event of a cathode mechanical breakage the part with the emitter still get the supply, so the lamp continue to work.