...And this one:

I can see why that attracts bugs. Clear MV lamps are used to attract moths and other insects for bug inspection purposes.
First, I would advise you get a new refractor, your local fleet farm or menards should have them.

Second, get a /DX coated bulb. They don't produce as much UV, and have more yellow in them.

And last, use some yellow glass stain to stain the new refractor and make the light yellow. Make sure you use enough, because if there is not enough paint it will just look like an icky off-white color. Since /DX bulbs produce more yellow, they would probably be a better choice.

Good luck! 

...And this one:

If you could get a new enclosed refractor for that, you could tint it dark yellow (with yellow printer ink on the inside) and use a /DX lamp. It would still provide enough light for your application, but it would be yellow, as not to attract bugs.

If you could get a new enclosed refractor for that, you could tint it dark yellow (with yellow printer ink on the inside) and use a /DX lamp. It would still provide enough light for your application, but it would be yellow, as not to attract bugs.

The old refractor was open-ended, not fully enclosed.   

Now that the bulb is fully exposed, could a cold rain or snow blow-up the bulb when it's on overnight?   

It hasn't yet with recent rains and one light snow event.   




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If you're talking about a merc, then no. I seen an MV NEMA get battered by rain and tree limbs for years and it didn't bat an eye.

There's no guarantee the lamp won't shatter from cold rain or snow. However, I've known some lamps (175W) to run for many years (some day burners) unprotected by any shield or refractor, and not shatter. Only time will tell, but the answer is probably not. Some of the lamps I'm talking about were on top of a hill near the ocean (and very, very windy). With snow, some flakes will end up in an open bottom refractor no matter what...

Yeah, but I also noticed my 100w HPS unit attracted tons of moths and flies.

Oh, poo.   I thought the color temp of HPS would be like a bug light, at least reduce the buggies?


I was (maybe still) thinking to covert to HPS or just get an HPS assembly.   Is the ballast located in the housing where the photo detector sits atop?


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I had an enclosed lens that I homemade and it was filled with a nice layer of bugs. And yes. But you need to get an HX NPF choke to wrk.

I had an enclosed lens that I homemade and it was filled with a nice layer of bugs. And yes. But you need to get an HX NPF choke to wrk.

Core & Coil or an Electronic Ballast for HPS conversion?

  https://www.1000bulbs.com/category/high-pressure-sodium-ballasts/





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I'd think this would work nicely if it fits...check the dimensions to be sure. Obviously you will need a 100-watt mogul base HPS lamp too.

https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/6004/BS-LU0100120.html

You could also use a 50 or 70 watt ballast/lamp but anything over 100 watt would probably be overkill.

Quote from: Solanaceae on September 18, 2015, 05:30:19 PM

Yeah, but I also noticed my 100w HPS unit attracted tons of moths and flies.

Oh, poo.   I thought the color temp of HPS would be like a bug light, at least reduce the buggies?


I was (maybe still) thinking to covert to HPS or just get an HPS assembly.   Is the ballast located in the housing where the photo detector sits atop?


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How large of an area do you need the light to cover? HPS ballasts on 1000bulbs are extremely cheap, even with shipping, so I would just get one of those. yes, the ballast is in the housing where the photocell sits atop. Don't use an electronic ballast, they are waaaaay too expensive, plus the heat would probably kill it. If you need it, I can post a pic of the ballast location in a MV yardblaster fixture. Mine are different from what you have, but they are probably the same on the inside.

Oh my.   Looked out back moments ago and it is BLACK outside.  

To the basement I go.  

Got a step-ladder and ventured out the basement door.  

Up the ladder I go and as I reached atop and touched the photocell cover, the bulb started up.

As I got back inside and looked out moments later, it was out again.  

Is it the bulb going bad or something loose up there?  

I didn't try to jostle the photocell again - I just unscrewed and removed the bulb.  

For now, I got a shielded, clamp-on work light out there with a 60-Watt bulb.  I put foil around the cord and switch to keep any rain out.  
The cord is routed inside and plugged into a 120V socket.  


I'll check into it tomorrow and see what wiring may be compromised.    



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Those photocells are readily available in the lighting section of home improvement and hardware stores. The ones with the clear plastic cover are not the best quality, but they will work.

3 more pics...

Those photocells are readily available in the lighting section
of home improvement and hardware stores.

The ones with the clear plastic cover are not the best quality, but they will work.

The Photocell crapped-out again, recently.  Hole in taped-up cover.  Weathered relay.  I messed up the spring-action on the relay, so I turned it into a 'always on' device.  The MV lamp is still working.  I don't know how many years that bulb has. 

I see on Amazon or Home Depot or Walmart, of the 'clear' or 'milky' covered photocell units, most actually have pretty good ratings.  These are the "Touch and Glow", "Brinks", 'Westek', and "Cooper" brands.  "Woods" was 'poorer' rated.

Anyway, the 'acting' landlord agent will pick one up when I contact him, I suppose.  I see the red or maroon 'UtiliTech' brand at Lowes has 12 reviews with One-and-a-Half Stars.  The 'Tork' brand has no reviews.





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