Quote from: Zarlog on July 07, 2016, 04:35:53 PM

If they will ship to UK, =0+%7E%7C%7E+No+Max&volts[]=0+%7E%7C%7E+No+Max&subId[]=48&sortBy=default&pageNum=2&itemsPerPage=10&offset=16&returnPage=products%2F]these would be ideal. They have a multitap ballast with a 240v option, and UK 400w HPS lamps are electrically identical to US 400w HPS lamps.

What for?

For swimming pool lighting.

Quote from: wattMaster on July 07, 2016, 04:36:47 PM

Quote from: Zarlog on July 07, 2016, 04:35:53 PM

If they will ship to UK, =0+%7E%7C%7E+No+Max&volts[]=0+%7E%7C%7E+No+Max&subId[]=48&sortBy=default&pageNum=2&itemsPerPage=10&offset=16&returnPage=products%2F]these would be ideal. They have a multitap ballast with a 240v option, and UK 400w HPS lamps are electrically identical to US 400w HPS lamps.

What for?

For swimming pool lighting.

Are we actually planning a real swimming park?

Tropical does not nmean extreme K lights. Tropical is absolutely reachable with 6500K. It is the design of the place and plantation in it that counts

For a glass roof pool tropical means direct sunlight, so sharp shadows, so none of the indirect light options

For an opaque building (Concrete, ...) pool building, Indirect main light options can be made to imitate light coming from outside into a room with no luminaires in it. So either coffered ceiling with the openings being open to the sky, or a wall illuminated by sunlight through high windows, that then reflects the light into the rest of the room. This would result in very non uniform illumination - a gredient of brightness across the room, but its ok if the wall chosen is the long side wall. On the wall itself sharp shadows would still be a good thing, and i'd choose some MH wallpacks or floodlights in a niche facing the wall (so that they light into the wall)

If no such structural features (coffered ceiling or niche above wall where lights can be installed facing the wall) and we still want the light from the side effect, then its back to MH wallpacks on the wall itself

Maybe have a solid roof (Not totally clear sky light) with some diffused skylights scattered around, some high bay fixtures, and some PAR 38 floods around, on the ceiling and wall.

We also have to factor in night time lighting if the roof is mainly glass.

If the skylights are in the spaces of a coffered ceiling, then they can be made as a true skylight + artificial light together, so the pool lighting is still "day". If the ceiling is glass then it is visible that its night outside, so the artificial lighting better not try to imitate daylight but simply good electrical lighting setup

If the skylights are in the spaces of a coffered ceiling, then they can be made as a true skylight + artificial light together, so the pool lighting is still "day". If the ceiling is glass then it is visible that its night outside, so the artificial lighting better not try to imitate daylight but simply good electrical lighting setup

Or have the skylights as a one-way-mirror and have some lighting on during the day to compensate for the light loss, but then have it full power at night and have the light blocked by the mirror.

Dont need that, just use skylights with clear glass in the day and directional lighting in the same skylights in the night (HID highbay into the same window, hidden from side view by the ceiling structure)

Dont need that, just use skylights with clear glass in the day and directional lighting in the same skylights in the night (HID highbay into the same window, hidden from side view by the ceiling structure)

Here's a plan.

Consider this picture (ubiquitious in all safety instruction presentations in laboratories and workplaces that i went to) when thinking to hang luminaires above a pool



Either light the pool from the side, or from above (so you can access the luminaires from the roof of the building)

Consider this picture (ubiquitious in all safety instruction presentations in laboratories and workplaces that i went to) when thinking to hang luminaires above a pool



Either light the pool from the side, or from above (so you can access the luminaires from the roof of the building)

I have an idea, point the light at mirrors above the pool to mimic high bay fixtures.

Or drain the pool before working on the ceiling.   

Or drain the pool before working on the ceiling.   

Well, the water in the pool uses to be more expensive than all the fixtures above it (well, just because of the amount of the water there), so making the lighting so the pool needs to be empty to fix a faulty lamp is really not any good approach to go...

Quote from: FGS on July 08, 2016, 10:05:18 PM

Or drain the pool before working on the ceiling.   

Well, the water in the pool uses to be more expensive than all the fixtures above it (well, just because of the amount of the water there), so making the lighting so the pool needs to be empty to fix a faulty lamp is really not any good approach to go...

Why not have big water storage tanks to keep the water?

Why not have big water storage tanks to keep the water?

Double the cost of the pool building...

The pool itself is usually very huge water storage and the most expensive on it§s building is to make sure it holds that amount of water and does not leak in either direction. The fact it is accessible for swimming is just small portion of the building cost. So an extra storage means paying an extra pool, just without the possibility to use it in such way.


Of course, a small home refreshing pool cost few order of magnitude less than an Olympic sport swimming pool, but I don't think the relative contributions by different parts (tme main tub, water treatment equipment, roof, water content itself,...) to the total cost are not that much different...


I think the indirect lighting using the mirrors above the pool is not that bad idea - the electrical stuff (which is the part that tends to break without warning) is only on the sides, where you may access it anytime you want without messing up with the water, above the water are just the mirror panels, which need just some cleaning as a maintenance and that can be well sheduled/postponed till the time, when the pool water is going to be replaced anyway (usually once a year or so).
Otherwise with higher ceiling lights, you will need some scaffold system or so anyway, so then the water underneath is not relevant for the electrical work (it would be just another humid environment).