dor123
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Ao97qoav1IThe ballast is a Perfekt-Start made by Eltam Ein-Hashofet in Israel and it is more then 30 years old. Is dead fluorescent lamps do this with your american rapidstarts and british semi-resonants and quickstarts also?
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« Last Edit: June 04, 2011, 12:43:08 PM by dor123 »
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I"m don't speak English well, and rely on online translating to write in this site. Please forgive me if my choice of my words looks like offensive, while that isn't my intention.
I only working with the international date format (dd.mm.yyyy).
I lives in Israel, which is a 220-240V, 50hz country.
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Medved
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This is, what lamps do on my RS experiment (electronic with limited OCV based on this , for heaters is added auxiliary windings to the TRL), when filaments are not connected (= no emission), so i suppose the same would be with worn out cathodes (= as well no emission).
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xmaslightguy
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Yep that's the type of flicker some magnetic RS ballasts will do with dead lamps.
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« Last Edit: May 16, 2011, 11:38:58 PM by xmaslightguy »
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dor123
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I tought in the past that the ballast in this fixture is a rapidstart, but i turned out that this isn't a rapidstart but Eltam Perfekt-Start starterless ballast, which have similar behaviors of rapidstarts, except that during igntion, the electrodes are heated before the current starts to flow (Preheating), instead of during the current flowing (Heating) like rapidstart and SRS, despite the absence of a starter.
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I"m don't speak English well, and rely on online translating to write in this site. Please forgive me if my choice of my words looks like offensive, while that isn't my intention.
I only working with the international date format (dd.mm.yyyy).
I lives in Israel, which is a 220-240V, 50hz country.
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Ash
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I dont see how is it possible with Perfekt start. If the lamp current is not sufficient it will short out after few seconds and the lamp will only light at the ends, and start over in a loop
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dor123
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Ash: i saw that these Perfekt-Start ballasts, shares many things that happens with rapidstarts. Namely continuous 50hz flickering (Rectification) at EOL without flashing on/off at all. Also if you turn a T12 lamp with a Perfekt-Start off and back on, it will glow such for anywhere form several secs to 5 mins than preheating and then starting and lighting. Here is a post with my old video of the fluorescents in the copying room of the storage of Carmel hospital, turns on/off by me. The fixture near the door in this video have Perfekt-Start ballasts (That were replaced by Shingot Electronic-Start magnetic ballasts), and the rest have Shingot Electronic-Start magnetic ballasts, which incorporates a replaceable electronic starter. And here is a post of my old video of the Perfekt-Start ballasts behaviors with 40W T12 and 36W T8, when turned on/off by me.
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« Last Edit: June 17, 2011, 04:38:05 AM by dor123 »
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I"m don't speak English well, and rely on online translating to write in this site. Please forgive me if my choice of my words looks like offensive, while that isn't my intention.
I only working with the international date format (dd.mm.yyyy).
I lives in Israel, which is a 220-240V, 50hz country.
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Ash
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I tried to reproduce a lot of the stuff with a PerfektStart fixture here. Put in good and rectifying lamps, T8, T12. What i found :
Good T12 lamp can stuck in this condition for a while if briefly interrupted
Rectifying T12 lamp will start and keep on without restarting. If interrupted, it will preheat and start again within few seconds
Good T8 lamp will work. If interruprted it first will not light at all, then after few seconds prehea, then after few seconds start
Rectifying T8 lamp will randomly work without flickering, preheat in a loop, etc
I tried to simulate a lamp with broken seal by inserting the ends of 2 different good T8 lamps into the fixture (This way i dont have to mess up with a real broken lamp and breathe mercury). They preheat on and off in a loop each few seconds
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dor123
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Here is a video of the Perfekt-Starts ballasts turned on/off by me. This was in the time that the 36W T8 stopped to work. You can see that the 36W T8 don't working at all in this video, despite that it have no any end blackening.
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I"m don't speak English well, and rely on online translating to write in this site. Please forgive me if my choice of my words looks like offensive, while that isn't my intention.
I only working with the international date format (dd.mm.yyyy).
I lives in Israel, which is a 220-240V, 50hz country.
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Liam
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SRS ballasts don't do this when the cathodes brake, My School is fitted with around 200 SRS ballasts and none that i have seen do this. When the cathode brakes on SRS they just go out, they don't keep flickering like a T12 on Switch start ballast. But every now and again the fitting will make a clicking noise and the tube will flash once and that's about it.
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Medved
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The dim glow I see quite often on the preheat fixtures here, usually the reason is bad starter (open) part of the circuit, usually either bad contacts, or sometimes even filament break. Usually it flows only when there are other light sources around, it isn't selfsustaining, so probably a photo emission triggers a glow discharge. But as the discharge gets extinguished before the next half cycle, it does not have enough current, so cathode losses available to heat up the electrodes to transition to the normal arc discharge (and the normal preheating does not work).
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dor123
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Is this the same dim glow that appears in arctubes of HPS lamps, when cycled and the ignitor disconnected (Ie. HPS lamps with internal starter with a thermal cutout and penning start HPS lamps, will exhibit a dim glow in the arctube after the thermal afterglow of the arctube disappears, when the starter/starting electrode is disconnected by the bi-metal)?
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I"m don't speak English well, and rely on online translating to write in this site. Please forgive me if my choice of my words looks like offensive, while that isn't my intention.
I only working with the international date format (dd.mm.yyyy).
I lives in Israel, which is a 220-240V, 50hz country.
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Medved
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