I doubt the "sharpness" has anything to do with UV at all.
But the CRI80 CFL's emit all light just within few peaks in the spectrum and nothing elsewhere. That indeed looks not natural (it is, why at the end the CRI isn't closer to 100).
On the other hand the CMH tend to emit zillions of lines over he whole spectrum, the 3000K (WW) types just tend to be too rich in the yellow (in fact a HPS radiation) and that lowers their CRI to the 80's, but still the spectrum i rather full with them. The NDL (4200K) have the yellow weaker (that is, what shifts the CCT), more appropriate to the white, so that is, why these really have CRI 90+.

I noticed that Osram 3000K Dulux D (PL-C) lamps - specifically them, not 2700K - have very pleasing "not cold" light. I experimented with Dulux D 18W and 26W in 2700/3000/4000 K and big diffusers (actually "lollipop" posttop lanterns, with the white sphere made of Polyethylene, that transfers colors correctly and does not filter the light) and compared them

The Osram 3000K 36W T8 Lumilux is close second but it looks like they use some other Phosphor there, that lets some of the "cold" out, tho little

LED lamps can indeed appear warmer, i guess that is because of the lack of Violet and relatively low Green in the spectrum, so probably the Blue alone is not very visible in the overall color. However, it is noticable that their spectrum is lacking where the 3000K Triphosphors are not

Maybe it is still there but 'drowned' in the other spectrum lines.

Triphosphor fluorescents make everything cartoony due to the spikes. Those spikes also have high relative energy.

Triphosphor fluorescents make everything cartoony due to the spikes. Those spikes also have high relative energy.

And yet it gives good CRI.
Halophosphors just have that "feeling" of the light.

The spikes from Triphosphors (and spikes from the Hg discharge) are spaced out well in the visible spectrum, so cover most all of it well, without overloading any specific cone cell type. Their light is the best White (of any color temp) you can get before you turn to MH

The spikes from Triphosphors (and spikes from the Hg discharge) are spaced out well in the visible spectrum, so cover most all of it well, without overloading any specific cone cell type. Their light is the best White (of any color temp) you can get before you turn to MH

MH can get more color temps with potentially better (or worse) CRI.

No, broad spectrum deluxe halophoshor lamps have the best color/spectrum. They are inefficient though.

No, broad spectrum deluxe halophoshor lamps have the best color/spectrum. They are inefficient though.

I love the look of the plant grow (GE Plant & Aquarium) lights, as I don't actually have any "real" Deluxe Halophosphor tubes, but I think it makes everything look nice and cozy.

Hmm. Late reply, but for my house we've done a partial conversion.

I bought my first LEDs in 2012 (and they still work). They're 7.5W Utilitech (Panasonic) LEDs. I had installed them in my room but they're now in my brother's room. Those were our only LEDs until about May 2016 when I found some more LEDs at the ReStore. They were dirt cheap so I bought a few.

Currently this is my lighting situation:

Kitchen Chandelier: 4X 60W= LEDs
Kitchen Sink Light: 1X 60W=LED; 1X 60W= CFL
Dining Room Light: 4X 60W=LEDs
Living room: 3-Way CFL (50/100/150W=)
Hallway Light: 2X 60W Incandescent (actually 2X 52W Sylvania SuperSaver lamps; both original to the house from 2003)
Brother's Bedroom: 3X 60W= LED
My Bedroom: 3X 60W= LED
Parents' Bedroom: 2X 53W (75W=) halogens
Master Bathroom: 1X 75W= LED; 4X candelabra base 40W incandescent globe lights for vanity
Bathroom: 1X 75W= LED; 3X 60W G30 incandescent lamps for vanity (all are original to house from 2003)
Staircase Chandelier: 5X 40W Incandescent (all original to house from 2003)

And now the basement and garage:
1X 53W halogen, 2X 2-lamp F40T12/RS vaportight fixtures, 1X 3-lamp F17T8 wrap light, 1X 3-lamp F32T8 troffer, 1X 2-lamp F32T8 troffer, 1X 1-lamp  F30T12/RS light, 1X 2-lamp F48HO industrial, 1X 100W incandescent keyless socket fixture, 1X 2-lamp F40 preheat shoplight, 1X 2-lamp F40T12/RS turret with 34W lamps.

For Outside:
2X 53W halogens by front stoop
2X 72W halogens by garage door
1X 100W HPS flood light for backyard
1X 75W halogen flood light for backyard (attached to HPS flood)
1X 70W PSMH deck light

I've pretty much eliminated all the CFLs. I'm still installing halogens for outdoor lights since any LED I've installed outdoors won't last for whatever reason. I have switched to all LED for 40-and-60W= lamps (as they die; working lamps remain) and I'm thinking about switching over the remaining 75W= lamps over to LED as they burn out.

My house now, unless my dad, who's living there while I'm in college, had to change a burned out bulb:

Mostly 5000K LED now, TCP and Feit from 2016, and a couple 2700K GEs from 2016 and two 2700K Philips ones.

A few CFLs are left, but in rarely used locations as it is.  I'd like to eradicate them as well.  Mostly 2700K but one 23w 6500K.

I also have some 5000K filament LEDs, two in the fridge light and two in a motion sensor outside. 

And still lots of magnetic F40/RS!  I mean LOTS.  Four F32T8 wraparounds, but good quality commercial grade Lithonia ones.  Two are on replacement ballasts though. 

For me, no bulbs have burned out, except for one $1 LED filament bulb.
When the outdoor CFL floodlights burn out, I might try to install some LED.
Currently, the only indoor CFL is in an attic light.

Triphosphors over here. Ain't going to downgrade

My room : 6500K / 4000K / 2700K Triphosphors
Parents rooms : 2700K Triphosphors
Living room : 6500K Triphosphors
Dining room/Kitchen : 2700K + 3000K Triphosphors + 6500K Halophosphors
Corridors : Incandescent
Bathrooms : Incandescent
Outdoor : HPS

House is mostly linear fluorescent - depending on the room T5, T8, or T12 (with T12 becomming less through upgrades in living spaces.. but the garage will remain T12, those fixtures will not be upgraded)
Dining room & bathrooms are incandescent, and will remain as such.

Now, our house is mostly LED, but with a few notable non-LED lights.