Hello, i was puzzled by the same thought but as I mentioned the wiring is exactly as it was when the lamp was working. I have found a wiring diagram that mirrors the wiring in the fitting, I’ve attached it for you to see.
Once again, thank you for your advice
You have to follow the wiring diagram for the components you have. Even when that should be different from the original circuit.
There are plenty of circuit topologies, all have components named "ballast" and "ignitor", but they are completely different from each other, so use different wiring diagrams. Of course, using diagram coming from one topology with components designed for another one may not work.
Although the main lamp ballasting is always "a choke in series with the arc" and the "semiparallel ignitor is using the ballast choke with a tap as a HV pulse transformer", the main differences is, how the ignitor pulser (the "ignitor" box) interfaces with the ballasting coil (what is the tap pulse voltage, on which end of the choke it is, how the ignitor detects whether the lamp had ignited or not,...) in order to correctly generate the ignition voltage pulses at the lamp. I know at least three circuits, all three using three terminal ballast choke and a three terminal ignitor box, but completely incompatible one to each other.
Now you have the Philips kit, so you have to follow the wiring diagram for that kit (= what is posted on the ignitor or maybe even the ballast).
What you have found on that page shows the other topologies, maybe even designed for other mains systems (120V,...), so it is very likely these are not valid for the components you have now.
All this is the reason, why all important components (except the generic ones like capacitors) have the corresponding wiring diagram printed on them AND often are listing the type of the complementary components (from the same maker). You have to always make sure the wiring diagram matches even when replacing some components (to make sure they are of the same topology).
