dor123
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| Because the fluorescent lamps in fluorescent nightlights are so small and have very low wattage, they can be ignited from the mains voltage easily, with a simple resistor system and without a starter or a HV device.
However, despite the low voltage that applied during the starting, each starting the nightlight, still erodes the lamp electrodes and dramatically affects their lifespan.
Why this is happens?
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I"m don't speak English well, and rely on online translating to write in this site.
Please forgive me if my choice of my words looks like offensive, while that isn't my intention.
I only working with the international date format (dd.mm.yyyy).
I lives in Israel, which is a 220-240V, 50hz country.
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imj
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| The electrodes are not heated and running on low power means it's running cold or below thermionic emission of the electrodes and that creates alot of sputtering. The same thing happens to HIDs during warm up and striking so you can usually see blackening of the ends of the discharge tube during warm up and disappears after it fully warmed up because the burnt material gets into the arc and gets deposited behind the electrodes.
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Medved
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| Exactlz, even if there is no HV boost, the lamp start in an InstantStart manner with all consequences.
Moreover the most popular series capacitor ballast cause quite high current crest factor, what does not do anything good as well.
And it does not matter, if the discharge start directly across the tube, or with the aid of starting probes, in both cases the discharge start on cold electrodes.
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No more selfballasted c***
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Ash
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| If you are speaking about those <50 mm 3W fluorescent, open the case and look inside - the one i seen uses a probe start on both ends, similar to mercury lamp
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dor123
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| Most of my fluorescent nightlights i had, didn't used starting electrodes and starting probes at all.
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I"m don't speak English well, and rely on online translating to write in this site.
Please forgive me if my choice of my words looks like offensive, while that isn't my intention.
I only working with the international date format (dd.mm.yyyy).
I lives in Israel, which is a 220-240V, 50hz country.
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Ash
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| I have one with them somewhere, can post pics if i find it. Its Jeko 3W it was bought in Shupersal
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