Nice you got the fixture open, and figured out what was wrong. As for the switch, both the pull chain and the adding the switch loop are good ideas.

I retrofitted a pull chain fixture before to switched using a switch loop. The most common way is to use standard 14/2 romex but if you spring for 14/3 you also get a neutral in the box which will let you easily replace the switch with a timer or a Wifi switch, although I suppose a simple switch in your case will do.

Thanks @Patrick - the shed layout is like this: 70s breaker box at the far left corner of the shed, one breaker controls multiple sets of outlets, another a different set of outlets, and another for the light(s). Cable travels out of the breaker box along the wall, snakes up the rafters, and then "hangs" down toward the shoplight.

There's a door next to the set of rafters where the wiring travels, so theoretically I can add a wire branch somewhere there, though I'm not entirely certain.

Regarding the wiring diagram you provided, can I use the existing romex (which is cut / removed at one point) to wire in the switch, or would I have to branch off directly at the fixture, connected only at its ballast without the lengthy romex leading to that same ballast lead? Sorry if that's confusing- I'll try and get a picture tomorrow of what I mean.

@joseph_125 - sounds like I'll be putting in a loop switch. Gotta grab some 14/3 from the local supply house (HD is always overpriced for ROMEX).

Any ideas as to the length I'll need? I'll try and get a 25ft roll, don't think I'll need anything more than 10ft.

Though, I think the first step here is to get a junction box, put it on the wall, wire everything up (w/o switch) then add a switch at the entrance of the shed later down the line (in about a week once I get some more downtime on my hands).

Thanks all of you guys.

@Maxim
Yes, 14/3, if you want to comply with NEC requirements there needs to be a neutral wire present in that new switch box even if the switch doesn’t need it (unfortunately). Obviously if the circuit is a 20A circuit you would need 12/3, but it sounds like that isn’t the case. Since you don’t own the building, I would be extra careful with regards to following code, I would assume you aren’t a licensed electrician yet lol.

This plan sounds pretty good!

I'm not entirely sure, but for the switch loop you might need to use AC (armoured cable) instead of Romex if the area the cable running down to the switch is subject to physical damage since this is a utility space.

@joseph_125

Excellent point, I completely forgot to mention that. This may or may not be required for this space. Though I personally would use BX cable (if it is allowed in your jurisdiction), MC cable is more familiar for people that are used to NM cable, and more likely to be allowed. Though you might not need to use any type of armored cable, depending on what is in the room.

Regarding the wiring diagram you provided, can I use the existing romex (which is cut / removed at one point) to wire in the switch, or would I have to branch off directly at the fixture, connected only at its ballast without the lengthy romex leading to that same ballast lead?

Yes, you can do either, which is preferable depends whether you want the switch closer to the fixture or the junction box.  The caveat being if you bring the switch wiring to the junction box, the cable leaving that junction box leading to the fixture isn't going to carry continuous power unless you swap it out with a three-conductor cable.  However, given that it only serves the light fixture, that doesn't matter.  On a side note, often times you'll see information indicating that all connections and splices are to be made in a junction box rather than a fixture.  However, these kind of striplights with knockouts and channels can serve as their own junction box.  There might be some code restrictions on tapping power from a luminaire however (it may only be permitted for additional lighting).  I presume tapping power from the fixture for its own switch would be fine, though I'm not a professional or electrical code expert.

@joseph_125 , @Multisubject - the fixture currently is powered- as a temporary fix, I wirenutted the two wires together. Tomorrow I plan to bring in a three-knockout junction box, some AC cable (thanks Joe- that was actually something I had overlooked), a switch box, and a light switch.

@Multisubject - the circuit is a 15A circuit, so 14/3 will do, as far as I know. Could you confirm? I want to run to HD tonight and grab everything before tomorrow rolls around. Also, can you tell me why the NEC updated their code standard fairly recently to disallow the use of a 12/2 or 14/2 cable? As far as I understand, it's because some timers and "smart" lighting products require a neutral. Is that right?

@Patrick - sounds good. The junction box is far closer to the area where I want to mount a switch, so that's where I will run the 14/3 switch cable from.

Also, this is a fixture manufactured by the "Keene Corp.". Any ideas as to its age? I read that they went defunct in 1993 after being sued for selling tons of insulation products containing asbestos in the years before it was banned.

Here is a lit photo, and a picture of the fixture's label.

Nice that you have it working.  Bringing a neutral to the switch box is your best bet to ensure code compliance.  If your state has only enacted an edition of the NEC prior to the neutral requirement, then omitting it would still be allowed.  In addition, I have read there are some exemptions, such as when the switch box above is accessible.  But rather than do the research it'd be simpler to just pay a little extra to have the additional wire.

At my new place there's some NM cables running down the wall to a switch and a couple outlets in an unfinished area.  I asked the home inspector and he wasn't concerned about it, but I'm not sure it's up to code with regard to damageability.  Sometimes it's tough to get an exact answer to code questions as the language is subject to interpretation.  Also some municipalities have additional requirements.  Chicago is very strict and I'm not sure if even AC/MC cable would be permitted in this situation there.  For the most part EMT conduit is required there.

Also, this is a fixture manufactured by the "Keene Corp.". Any ideas as to its age? I read that they went defunct in 1993 after being sued for selling tons of insulation products containing asbestos in the years before it was banned.

The Advance ballast in the fixture is a late-80s or early-90s model based on the label, so unless it’s a replacement ballast, that is approximately how old the fixture is. The fixture seems very 80s to me, so that makes sense. If you unscrew the ballast, you’ll find a date of manufacture on its top side. Ballasts were usually made within months of the fixtures they came in, so the date on the ballast will give you a good idea of the fixture’s date of manufacture.


I don’t think the Keene Corporation that made the asbestos insulation is the same as the one that made light fixtures. It seems as though this particular Keene Corporation is still around today as “Stonco-Keene” and currently under Philips/Signify, having been previously owned by Genlyte-Thomas, which was acquired by Signify in 2008.

Nice you got it working, the subject to physical damage clause in the code is subject to interpretation and also the type of use the space is designed for. In fact I have a retrofitted switch loop with open wiring using only 14-2 romex lol. Conduit would be my preference for exposed wiring in more utility spaces but it would be harder to install.

I suppose the requirement to use 14/3 for switch loops now stems from switches that require a neutral such as wifi switches, and timers being more common than before.