I think this might be interesting to some.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n3ci4nlKhEk

Well, the reason for not covering it is to allow the air flow to cool the LED's. When covered, it will hopelessly overheat...

That's no excuse to have live parts exposed! A dangerous and poorly designed product that should NOT be allowed to be on sale!

Just imagine your replacing a failed lamp and are not sure if it's on or off, your inserting this lamp with one hand and holding the earthed fitting with the other... you'd get a nasty shock! And before you say RCD, a lot of older houses in the UK don't have them!

It isn't, it is just the answer why the cover isn't there. And what is not the way, how to make it safe...
To be safe with such power level and "corn lamp" style, it need a SELV supply.

Watching that video was pretty shocking. The current that was able to flow out was lethal! Unfortunately, there's very little Citizen's Advice or the UK regulation bodies can do as there's simply far too many dodgy products.

Here is a picture of a small covered generic (No printing on the lamp) corn LED lamp, inside a globe with an 24V 60W incandescent lamp, near my father home. There are several of these. All receives 24V 50hz AC, and are very dim on the 24V AC.
These type of corn lamps are very popular in Israel as well.

Well, that is, how the simple capacitor ballasted should look like. But because the dome block the air circulation, it is not usable above about 3W.

I bought 10 5w Gu10 LED's for the kitchen not so long back and needless to say all have popped, the reason they fitted them with 160v caps and all when't out in one night....Going to upload the video to You Tube now showing them all failing. 

I bought 10 5w Gu10 LED's for the kitchen not so long back and needless to say all have popped, the reason they fitted them with 160v caps and all when't out in one night....Going to upload the video to You Tube now showing them all failing. 

I do not know, which part of the world are you from, but the 160V rating should be sufficient for the 120V mains when the overvoltage protection is equipped (another ~80V is the voltage drop across the LED's, so it is about 240V total, normally the mains peak voltage is below 200V even when the mains voltage becomes elevated due to some reason.
So then the reason behind was most likely some tray of overvoltage spikes, so it overheated the protection. Then I would look for the source of this in the first place. It is not because of some cheepeese lights, but because it is most likely some sparking and that is asking for a fire...

@Medved, i am from the UK and we are 240v. the lamps i bought stated on the etch 220-240v but when i discovered some had failed i opened some up to find 160v Caps inside that had exploded.

Get some 7w Sylvania Britespot RefLED ES50 lamps. THE best halogen retrofit, full stop.

Have you got a picture of one FSB? The fittings that are installed will only fit the size of the normal Gu10 nothing bigger.

@Liam:
160V rating at 220..240V? Was that really the ballasting capacitor (the series one, before the rectifier; always film or ceramic capacitor, never an electrolytic)?

Sometimes there is another capacitor (usually an electrolytic) parallel to the LED string. There the 160V rating would be sufficient even for the 230V, as it sees just the LED string voltage (that is fixed, given by the number of LED chips in the chain and does not depend on the mains). Products rated for 230V usually use up to 150V LED strings, so the 160V rating would be marginal, but still OK. There can not be any overvoltage, without blowing the LED's first, so there is no need for too big design margin.
If that electrolytic blows, it means the LED string already have failed open circuit.

Do you have some detailed picture of the internals?

Probably cheap capacitors with the incorrect temperature rating.
Who knows with cheap electronics off eBay? I've seen recycled capacitors being used in new products before!