And how is that more dangerous than the same happening when the switch is in the on position ?

And how is that more dangerous than the same happening when the switch is in the on position ?

Because then you are less likely to realize that power is connected, since the switch could be "off".

If the wire gets loose the light will go off just as well with the switch still in the on position

The point is, you are not supposed to build on the "less likely" thing as your safety defense in the first place. For protection against fault to the lantern metal body, use Earthing - that works allways and for sure as long as the Earthing connection itself is intact

I'm going to get some DPST switch for the lantern. I'll have to make some modifications to the fixture I'm going to use, probably a habitat one.

I have my eyes on a lot of three f16 ballasts for 240v. Will they run f15 bulbs given the conditions of my test?

John has a European 240V fixture at his place that he has demonstrated for me. As far as I know, it's switched via a double-pole circuit breaker on a typical 120-0-120 system.

The problem is not if it will work or not (it will) but how safe it would be. I am quite sure the electrical code prohibits any lighting above 120V in domestic situations. Commercial buildings have lighting up to 480V. Here in Canada, we have commercial lighting on a 347V phase-to-neutral system. I believe also that HID lighting on 240V phase-to-phase is permitted with CWI ballasts only as the lamp side windings are isolated form the mains side windings. Again, that is for commercial installations. On the other side of the code, I cannot see why using a North American-to-European voltage step-up transformer would be a problem...

I'm just using this as an experiment. Would I have to buy some S10 starters for this to work?

Try it with FS-4 first as you probably have some on hand. What lamp/ballast configuration are you considering ?

I have a bunch off fs4s on hand. I have drawn a diagram earlier in the topic.

FS-4 should work there. As far as code goes, I assume this will be more of a temporary installation and will not remain in the house after you move out. In that case, I wouldn't worry about code, but you should still make sure everything is properly grounded. Common sense still applies.

Correct. I'm just going to jury rig this (with ground) and maybe hang it from the ceiling.    I'm moving out to a smaller duplex area in a year so I'm taking the cooper hps light I retrofitted for merc. I'm also going to wait and hang the lithonia fixtures I nodded at the new place. The thing is, I took the GE lead lag ballasts out and put in GE rapid starts that take a whopping amp. 

Since the hot tub room is the only easy access for 240 in the house in worried about humidity (and my dad yelling at me) and its effects on the fixture. I don't want to knock out another hole on the box since its brand new and we're moving.

No electric dryer outlet?

No electric dryer outlet?

well the dryer is an old clunker gas/ electrical, so I'td be a pain to get behind. Plus, my room is right next to it (thanks, idiot designers), so if I started a fire I wouldn't want to fry my room. Plus the hot tub room has the power box with a removable power block for easy attachments of circuits and the floors are tile so I won't scorch it.