Yes, what places/applications with classical lamp types have you intentionally converted to LEDs because you came to conclusion that LEDs would be the best light source for them?
(And vice versa. What places/applications you would never ever use LEDs in because they're totally inappropriate there?) And why?

As for me:
1. All the portable lighting: Torches/flashlights, head lamps, bike headlamps and tail lamps, camping lighting... No light source would beat LEDs here. Maximum lumen output/weight ratio, good reliability and shock resistance (no torn filaments), work even with almost flat batteries.
2. Fridge lighting: No need to warm the fridge up with a 15W light bulb if a 3W LED gives off them same light. And it will outlive the fridge for sure.
3. Table and nightstand lamps with reflector bulbs. Incandescent reflector lamps aren't readily available for a few years and reflector CFLs aren't a good design (the tube is too huge to be effectively directed). Also, with incandescent reflector bulbs you could easily damage/fry plastic things on the table (a transistor radio to be disassembled...).
4. Bathroom lighting. The place was a CFL "gallows". Now, there's a LED module in a well ventilated fixture so we'll see...

Never:
1. Totally enclosed luminaires. If you need a higher IP protection - unless the light isn't specially designed for LEDs (the fixture back is a heat sink), don't put them in.
2. Lights that are used very rarely. Use incandescents here, they're much cheaper.
3. Streetlights in areas with frequent thunderstorms. LED drivers don't withstand as much as a magnetic ballasts/HIDs do.

I won't, generally speaking, allow LEDs installed in living areas inside my house, but as a bulb nerd I've bought some of them, and put in  most of the outdoor sockets- the porch light burns all night and the garage coach lights all evening. Also the garage lights. The back is mostly taken care of by a 70 watt HPS mini-pack. I toyed with the idea of changing it to LED or installing my 18 watt SOX mini-pak, but I just got two free bulbs for it so it'll probably stay unless the ballast burns out. And my desk lamp, which already has a 300 watt halogen torchiere in the room, so just needed for low heat supplemental light.

- Kitchen ceiling light, equipped by the 1'st generation of SSC ACRiche. Reason was the night light mode (the light switch has fewnF capacitors parallel to it, making the otherwise 16W LED to dimly glow at about 100mW). But it meant complete fixture conversion, so no E27's anymore. It was "1x up to 100W", but I bought it just that design was easy to convert (remove the E27, put an aluminum back panel as a heat spreader)

- Kitchen working desk strip light. Allows convenient touch control (anywhere along the batten; the "12VDC LED strip" is the only format conveniently supporting this), plus it allows easy dimming (for nighttime use; installed in my parent's home)

- Bathroom PIR controlled light (I somehow get lazy with the switches, mainly at night). Fluorescents do not like the PIR's (too frequent starting) and I do not like incandescents (I have experience with many of them exploding violently at their EOL; halogens haven't earned my trust and I doubt they will ever do so - too many reported exploding at the EOL as well)

- Toilet light: uses the SSC P7 led with a ballast made by myself. Again supports "nightlight" mode (there it needs ~100nF; this ability of the ballast discovered later on). Now installed with a 2-wire PIR sensor (I became lazy to even switch ON the light ... :-D)

- Permanent ON corridor light: Required 250lm are generated with the lowest energy needs by a 3W LED, no other source could ever compete with that. Enclosed fixture rated for 60W, but the heat is not of any problem just because of the low power. Fixture rated for 100W incandescent and fully enclosed, so should safely contain whatever nastiness the LED may do once EOL... Switch is out of the game, as the corridor is shared by too many people (it was too frequently damaged when equipped by the timer - as people have tampered with it in an attempt to prolong the light ON time), PIR sensors tend to die after about a year (the LED's are already proven better - 20 installed and no one failed yet after two years, before that every two weeks I had to repair at least one PIR)

- Bed reading lights (Ikea "goose neck") - just enough light, well adjustable, low heat, small head size

So far I've done the kitchen recessed cans, garage door opener, and half bath. The other two bathrooms will start getting LED filament lamps when I run out of G25 clear incandescents. I still have plenty of soft white and frosted A19 incandescents for less-frequently-used fixtures, plus around 13 CFLs.

The only place I can think of where I will never use an LED is in the attic.

I changed the master bathroom recessed cans but not the humidity vent hood. The light above the master bedroom windowsill has been replaced with LED since the original bulb died. They are feit leds and they've done good so far. There also was a spot replacement in the basement where the light is above the walk out door. Those lamps will prolly come with us in the move and be replaced with sylvania or GE incandescent equivalent.

Great topic. Owing to the skyrocketing prices of electricity in Australia, I have changed almost all of the lights in my house to LED. The only lights still running incandescent / fluorescent are those which are rarely used.

So far I only have 2 LED bulbs.
One replaced an incandescent in a reading lamp mainly because of the heat generated by the incandescent when in close proximity to it during the summer months. The other LED is a colour changing one just for novelty effect.
I still have spare incandescent's and CFL's to use up first.

I forgot to mention that I also have some color-changing LEDs in my dorm room at school, but they also contain white diodes for general illumination.

* table lamp in the living room that gets left on a lot.  10w Cree 4-flow bulb (cheap I know)
* porch lights that get left on all night.  Philips 60w equivalent "paddle bulbs"
* bedroom table lamp.  60W equivalent 10w GE Bright stik.
* lights in front of garage. (dusk to dawn security lights) the other 2 Bright stik's from the 3 pack.   60w Equivalent
* lights on side of barn (dusk to dawn security lights).  2 Great value 60w equivalent 10w undimmable.
* bathroom.  2 Great value 10W non dimmable 60w Equivalent in an unenclosed fixture.  used to use CFL's in there but the frequent switching meant you were lucky to get a year from them.  the LEDs have been there for over a year now and still seem ok.

everywhere else is CFL's.  I think theres only 2 or 3 incandescent lamps left in the house.  the barns are another story though. theyre almost all incandescent.  we went to LEDs outside because in the winter it gets down to - 10 to -20F at night regularly and the CFL's are too dim and the incandescent's cost more to operate and being on 12hrs a day, they don't last very long.

Kitchen has LED downlights which replaced the existing halogen lamps. LED for the bedside lamp in my son's room while everywhere else runs CFL. A HPS and MV wallpack fitting in the back garden as well as a few CFL fittings (CFL run all night by photocell)

Deliberately install LED I should think not its something I will never do

As kid i made some color (Red and Blue) flashlights out of cheap Incandescent flashlights

Actually, i noticed tha high brightness RED light give not bad illumination. I made panels of high brightness 5mm red LEDs (the type used in e.g. road flashers) just as ligth sources. The good thing is, unlike white LEDs, the red light is pretty suitable for using it for long time with litle eye strain



They are ok for wired-in emergency lighting too, where with the LEDs you can suffice with much lower capacity battery than with the Incandescent. But if i could choose any light source without limitations, then i'd take ~5W CCFL or ~5W/7W PL-S on DC inverter ballasts

Outside porch light, with two 3w "Designer's Edge" 6400K PARs.  Old and primitive compared to current technology, they've been there about 4 years now without issue.
Entryway lights, with Philips 8.5w 2700K A-shape LEDs.  Bright, but instant-bright, unlike CFLs (Which didn't warm up fast enough).  Plus those LEDs were actually given to me for free.
LED Christmas lights, which run 24/7 as accent lighting during the day and nightlights at night.

As for the NEVER, EVER places, that would have to be in place of working T-12 fluorescents.  T8s, maybe.  But not vintage T12s!

A Philips 14W '100W equivalent' LED lamp in a converted LoA bucket light in front of the garage as an in service torture test and 3 different LED lights as laying stimulation lights in the chicken houses that are also serving as reliability test subjects.

I live at home with my mother and she is getting up there in age and needs more light (as we all will when we get old and our eyesight dims) I have started converting everything in the house over to warm white LED with the exception of the fluorescent F32T8 fixtures in the laundry room, garage, and storage rooms.  Quite a few flood lights in the house, and also am slowly converting over the vanity mirror lights.  The color is very nice.  While the flood lights are rather bright, I am installing dimmers because they are a bit too bright for me.