Hi,

I recently bought a SONPAK-25 from Ebay, in good condition, said to have been sitting in a garage and not used at all.

Unfortunately, upon attempting to open the face to install the lamp and cabling, it seems to be stuck somehow.
There's 4 screws, one in each corner, and then a sort of clamp thing at the bottom of the faceplate with an L shaped piece of metal held in by a screw. I've tried loosening all of these, to no avail. There's also another very difficult to access screw behind the L shaped thing, which I have tried to undo, but it seems too tight and/or I can't get a good enough leverage on it. (I don't even know if that screw is meant to be acessed from the outside but I thought I might as well try). I also removed the stirrup just in the chance there was something to access behind there, but as expected, nothing.
Note: None of the screws come out after being fully loosened. EDIT: I managed to get out 3 of the 4 corner screws, seems like the bottom one is the problem

I haven't been able to find any instructions online, the only thing I found (other than other people selling the light), was this catalogue page, which says "easy installation with drop down glass and cable entry".



I have messaged Thorn on their website but I don't know how long it will be for them to contact me, or if they will solve the problem or even try due to "not supporting" the product anymore or something.

Here's some pictures of the light in question:






Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated! If all else fails I suppose I will have to break something and at least retrieve the lamp and make what I can with the rest

I think you need to screw out the four screws at each corner of the floodlight, to open it. You can use a portable drill with a screwdriver head if you can't open with a regular screwdriver.

I've already done that, it must be the thing under the semi circle at the bottom

Update: I managed to take off the shaped plate thing but the other screw underneath is still there and seems impossible to undo

You can use a portable drill with a screwdriver head if you can't open with a regular screwdriver.

A DRILL IS NOT A CORDLESS SCREWDRIVER. THEY ARE TWO VERY DIFFERENT TOOLS. With a drill you are guaranteed to destroy the screw head. Only a torque limited cordless screwdriver can safely drive screws

Cordless screwdriver without torque limit (or with the limit not set correctly) too can destroy screw heads

The safest option still is a hand screwdriver, it must be fit exactly for the screw, and pressure must be applied to prevent it from popping out of the screw head



If the screws are jammed, try spraying WD40 on the screw thread, where it is accessible in the seam between the lantern body and cover

Maybe its just the front stuck to the gasket from being pressed to it for very long time - Try to pry it carefuly near the screws that you loosened, taking care to not pull or bend the screw that is still tight

Ok,
I attached my screwdriver to a clamp for more torque and pressed down really hard and finally... managed to the metal faceoff.

Now the glass is stuck on the rubber gasket though lol... I guess I should just be able to pry it off though.

And yeah, I will have to put some WD40 on a bunch of stuff before I put it all back together again. Thanks.

Oh wait... Great, looks like there might be another problem.

It seems like there's meant to be a plastic screw on the end of the ignitor, but it's somehow been broken off





I guess that must have been the rattling sound whilst I moved it, I thought it was the bulb supports...

Do you think this is still safe to use or should I replace the ignitor?

No problem, just dont let anything get into the hole that broke in the plastic

OMG are you kidding me, and the terminal block has a dodgy screw for the earth, it just keeps jumping back up.
What idiot put the QC label on this.
I may ask for my money back at this point.

Maybe I can just rewire it with a new terminal block though. If I put marks and a photo of which cable went where I should be safe right (oh and the terminal needs to be rated for the right amps)

Post a picure of the terminal block in question..

This might happen if it is a cheap quality part (would Thorn use such part ?) or if it was over tightened.... Anyway, replace it. (While at that, check if everything else in this luminaire is good...)

Actually, false alarm it seems  

I think it was pushed in too far onto the earthing protrusion, which was intruding onto the incoming cable. I removed it and put it back on slightly less far and now the screw works fine.

Just need to wire the plug on the other end and then I will report back if it's finally working  

Here's the gear btw though (the marks on the wires were made by me as I thought I'd have to rewire it):

If you have to rewire it there is a circuit drawing on the ballast and on the ignitor

Just don`t put it into service, as these are a load of garbage!, once its been outside for a couple of winters, you`ll fine all 4 screws seized in the body, which you will have to drill out, (including the threads)!, the ones I look after at work have their covers held on with stainless steel cable ties!

Would teflon plumbing tape wrap around the screws would help any ? I have done that to  my valve cover on my
Chevy S10,  cause bolt  snapped off,  it sure made it
Easier  on my next valve cover gasket replacement