I have an application for a remote ballast for metal halide and I would like to remove the ignitor completely because I use a remote one close to the lamp. I have already disabled it but I would like to know if I need to connect the other two wires together if i remove it.

I would have to see the wiring diagram. Some circuits need the wires to be bridged in order to complete the lamp circuit, some need the wires to be left open and insulated (shorting them will short the ballast winding).
But just deactivating it by disconnecting its Neutral is sufficient, you do not have to remove it, then you don't have to worry which variant apply for you...

Is it me are you people getting fancy? Or on oxygen? No provocation, comprehensible complete sentences... Oh, you're using a translator, ok I got it.

When you say metal-halide, I've assumed you meant PSMH from your situation as I understood.

Remote means ignitor is still connected. If you want the ignitor near the lamp socket, you just extend the wires to the remote ballast.

If you're installing probe-start MH, then disconnect the white ignitor wire, cap it and leave it as is in case you change your mind in the future.

Is it me are you people getting lazier? Or on drugs? No punctuation, incomprehensible fragmented sentences... Oh, you're using a translator, ok I got it.

No need to be like that. The sentences are still understandable. Saying stuff like that seems like it may rile up needless troubles and hostility.

I understand your issue with punctuation and whatnot but I don't think going about it like that is any way to keep people friendly..

Guys, please keep this thread on a positive note. I'm not here to judge anyone according to grammar and spelling.

Now back onto the subject : I had to finish up typing quickly due to the circumstances at that moment. I should have been more specific on my situation. I hope this clears up the confusion.

I have a 70W M98 PSMH core-and-coil ballast kit. It works quite well without the capacitor. It will be used in a household situation, and there will only be one in use so power factor is not of paramount importance. The ballast will be installed in a 6x6x4 metal enclosure, with an approximatively 15 feet long extension cord between the ballast and the lamp holder. At the lamp holder, there will be a superimposed ignitor, which means the ignitor that is factory wired to the ballast is not required. Now, it will be cramped quarters in that ballast box, so I am considering removing the ignitor altogether, hence the need for the question in the first place.

There might be, in the future, a need to add an extra extension cord to mount the ballast even further from the lamp.

The extension cord between the ballast box and the lamp holder is an HID extension cord with appropriate connectors from Hydrofarm.

Hope this helps to clear up the confusion.

If I remember correctly, the ignitor is connected to the lamp output lead (red), the neutral (white) and a ballast tap often labeled X3 (blue).  It can be removed, but just make sure to cap the X3 wire.

The colors are assuming you're using an Advance ballast.

Ok, I finally got the chance to get a picture of the label. It appears that I have to simply disconnect all the wires and cap them off appropriately and that’s it.

Ok, I finally got the chance to get a picture of the label. It appears that I have to simply disconnect all the wires and cap them off appropriately and that’s it.

Yes, exactly (valid for this circuit).

Ok, thank you.  I will try to update on the results once I try it.

Remember, not everyone on this board speaks English as their first language. Let's not try and correct every little thing they may mess up! The human mind can correct and compensate for a lot of things.