lightman64
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Zero 88 Lighting Controls Rule!
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| Is it true if one end of a T12 is blackened, you can rotate it t oextend its life? and how does only one end blacken anyways? you would think both would....
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The future of street lighting is Induction, not nasty HPS lights or cr@ppy LED lights!
Preheat CFL's should make a comeback!
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Foxtronix
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Formerly "TiCoune66". Also known here as Vince.
 
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It depends of the ballast. Many 1 lamp trigger start ballasts (aka rapid start for 20W and less) have only one wire on a side (most likely the blue). In this case the electrode doesn't need to be intact. I did this experiment here . If you need more details let me know!  |
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lightman64
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Zero 88 Lighting Controls Rule!
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| i mean like a F40T12 rapid start
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The future of street lighting is Induction, not nasty HPS lights or cr@ppy LED lights!
Preheat CFL's should make a comeback!
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Foxtronix
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Formerly "TiCoune66". Also known here as Vince.
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| In this case I don't know if it can works, most likey not. There are some people on LG that have put a jumper on the socket to bypass the broken electrode. You can try but be careful!
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TudorWhiz
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In this case I don't know if it can works, most likey not. There are some people on LG that have put a jumper on the socket to bypass the broken electrode. You can try but be careful!
never jump a magnetic ballast NEVER EVER! ...the ones I know that did the jump thing is the ones with EOL electronic ballasts... |
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For pictures of my streetlight collection and other streetlight pictures with some various pictures that are not in this website, please visit http://www.galleryoflights.org/ under GullWhiz
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Foxtronix
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Formerly "TiCoune66". Also known here as Vince.
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| Ah OK LOL! What happen if I WOULD do that?
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don93s
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I would say rotating a fluorescent to get more life when ready to fail is a myth. Once one of the filament electrodes becomes depleted of emitters, it will fail no matter what side of the ballast it is on. One the other hand, if one of the filaments is broken due to shock or defect, but has emitters, it can still operate for a long time on certain ballasts. Here and here are pics of an example. However, most 40w R.S. magnetic ballasts won't properly light a lamp with broken or depleted electrode no matter how the lamp is put in. @TiCoune66.....shorting the sockets on trigger or RS ballasts will short the low voltage coils in the ballast and fry them. |
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« Last Edit: February 02, 2009, 08:57:41 PM by don93s »
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arcblue
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| On Alternating Current, each electrode is alternately acting as anode & cathode, so swapping the tube end-to-end tube shouldn't make a difference. On a battery powered (DC) fluorescent lantern, this trick does in fact work and extends the useful life of the lamp on the DC ballast.
I'm not sure why many lamps blacken on only one side and not the other - I suppose the electrodes are not made or coated perfectly, so one will run out of emitter before the other.
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I'm lampin...
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form109
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| with DC Powered is that caused by Mercury Migration?
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Silverliner
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Rare white reflector
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| That's right turning the lamps around won't sustain them, once they're spent they're spent. However I heard the electronic starters from the UK (Pulsestarter and LEL) can sustain spent lamps for several hundred more hours as long as the vacuum and the filaments are intact. Cool eh?
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Administrator of Lighting-Gallery.net. Need help? PM me.
Member of L-G since 2005.
Collector of vintage bulbs, street lights and fluorescent fixtures.
Electrician.
Also a fan of cars, travelling, working out, food, hanging out.
Power company: Southern California Edison.
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Foxtronix
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Formerly "TiCoune66". Also known here as Vince.
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My Universal Therm-o-matic ballast can run a F40T12 with the broken electrode on the yellow wires and run fine. Don: I forgot the heating coils in the ballast!  |
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Lampenfreak
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Hello this week my old Narva tube in the kitchen has been failed  . It is a F40T10 (40W). So I have tried to run it on an other ballast. The ballast is a 65W ballast (220V~ 0.67A 50Hz) and for about 3 hours it worked. But then the tube begun to flicker and strobe. Both electrodes are still intact and the blackening is really heavy now. If you have a strobing tube you can screw out the starter. That effects that the tube is flickering but not strobing . But to the myth question I can say it is not good to rotate the tube. I tried when my tube was ready to fail. The effect was that both electrodes flickered. Back to first position only one electrode flickered. So hope I could help. |
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