This would work but it is not foolproof - If you unplug one of the plugs you can get shock from it through the luminaire

If your parents dont let you change receptacles then your best option is making an adapter to the dryer receptacle (with 240V), with a breaker box in it that will lower the overcurrent limit to something more suitable for luminaire testing (10A or so)

This would work but it is not foolproof - If you unplug one of the plugs you can get shock from it through the luminaire

If your parents dont let you change receptacles then your best option is making an adapter to the dryer receptacle (with 240V), with a breaker box in it that will lower the overcurrent limit to something more suitable for luminaire testing (10A or so)

Cant do that either as its the dryer outlet and I cant mess with that. This is for just short term testing and photos before i can figure out a way to get it a more permanent way.

"I want to do X but my parents won't let me do X"

Okay, so why is this a thread? Their house, their rules. If they don't want you f cking around with 240V (and I don't blame them in the slightest), then abide by the restrictions. End of discussion.

Bulbman's (and since he asked us, our) part here is to find a way how he can do X

Parents reasoning may be scientifically based (specific concern about something) - That can be dealth with by addressing the something. Thats what engineers (and kids that will become engineers....) do

Or it might be emotionally based. In this case the catch is that "I want to do X" and "Parents wont let me do X" might have different definitions of X. In which case it may be possible to find a way to do X without actually breaking the rules. Thats what kids in general (and especially in a certain age range) have done for ages

Its a b22 socket that im goign to run with this. 

That is OK, this does not connect the shell at all...

And for the 240V:

If it is going to be just a test jig, use a transformer, best even an isolation one (ideal would be 120V primary and 230V secondary with a 120V tap; if you are considering e.g. a custom one...). The isolated output will make you safe even when the metal parts of the tested equipment is connected to which line (lamp shell, or AA5 style radios,...)

Put it into a box with a proper switch and a 120V cord, then put standard US 120V socket for the 120V output and an European socket for the 230V. With that you could be sure you wont mix it up anytime later. The European design ensures you cant touch the live contacts even when just partially in (low current ones have sleeves on the pins, larger uses skirt around them).

"I want to do X but my parents won't let me do X"

Okay, so why is this a thread? Their house, their rules. If they don't want you f cking around with 240V (and I don't blame them in the slightest), then abide by the restrictions. End of discussion.

There are more diplomatic ways of saying things, you know. He's a young lad, do you have to be so harsh..? 

When I live RV trailer I could not do any modification and it 120 volt 30 amp is all I have. But that did not stop me from running 240 volt fluorescent lights from UK.  Radio
Shack use to sell 300 VA 240 to 120 step down transformer and it isolated from the 240 volt mains
It had a EU 240 volt EU plug and 120 volt snap in outlet.
These commonly found at thrift stores or restore.   I used
A fused cord from a rope light to power the transformer backwards.  And cut off the EU style plug and wire it in my 240 volt fluorescent I got from UK. Here the you tube
Video how I got 240 volt living in a 120 volt RV.

https://youtu.be/rkLv_Q4L9i0


  It seem like what your doing is taking
  Both outet A 120 v and 120 volt from outlet
   B from two location and combine both L1 and L2
   In one box?   That hack I would not recomend doing
    Even if it works.   Like me and Ria said it best to use a
    Step up or step down transformer and it a lot more safe
     It took me a while to find a nice large one when a 2 KW 240/ 480 volt one showed up at restore, and paid 5 buck for it.

Thats what engineers (and kids that will become engineers....) do

I'm with you, to a certain extent. But this sounds less like a design problem, and more of a "help me find a way to cheat the rules" problem. Maybe I'm misunderstanding.

To attempt redirection back to engineering, then, a useful phrase is "A problem well stated is a problem half solved"

I think it would help if we knew precisely what it is you're not allowed to do. The waiting until suggestions are in, then shooting them down with ad hoc restrictions isn't very productive.

  I  Think he ment combine two 120 volt from two
  Different wall outlet to get 240 volt.  That is
  not very safe at all.  Your dealing with two hot to make
  240 volt.  Yet it a violation of code to put two hots on a
  Lamp socket. Second is This would trip put any GFCI
   Protection as it got nothing returned on neutral same
    For arc fault protection tripping out. 

     Use a transfomer and problem solved.

I'm with you, to a certain extent. But this sounds less like a design problem, and more of a "help me find a way to cheat the rules" problem. Maybe I'm misunderstanding.

To attempt redirection back to engineering, then, a useful phrase is "A problem well stated is a problem half solved"

I think it would help if we knew precisely what it is you're not allowed to do. The waiting until suggestions are in, then shooting them down with ad hoc restrictions isn't very productive.

I agree with my parents on not installing an outlet, it would take too much effort for something i would use once in a while. And i dont want to tap of the dyrer as it may inconvenience the rest of my family. Im trying to make an easy solution for all of us until i get a step up transformer.

I want to have one duplex 6-15 outlet and one 5-15. Problem is that i cant find 6-15 duplex outlets in white

I couldn't believe that: white is most popular colour these days, so how could it not be found in white?  I am surprised that, a white duplex 6-15 indeed is hard to find.  But it does exist.

Hubbell-PRO Heavy Duty Specification Grade Receptacle
Smooth nylon face, duplex, back and side wired.
15A 250V NEMA 6-15R UL CSA 1.5 HP
White 5662WHI

There's also Eaton (Eagle / Cooper) 5662W, and Legrand 5662W.

You could always use a 6-20 instead of a 6-15: it seems to be more commonly available (than 6-15) in white.  15A and 20A receptacle-outlets are practically interchangeable, on 15/20 amp circuits.  (Not so with current capacity over 20A!)  There's nothing unsafe, truly wrong, with doing that.  It's just not obsessive-compulsive match-exactly "perfect" to put a 20A receptacle on 15A-protected circuit, but perfectly okay to do.

Dont tap off the dryer, just unplug it and plug in your adapter. When done, plug the dryer back

The adapter you have to make for this consists of a cable with the matching plug and breakers. There gotta be a 2 pole breaker for 10..15A at most, that will provide a lower overcurrent protection threshold (the dryer could be on a 30A circuit, which is too high for use for testing), and a 240V GFCI

(Unless you are experimenting with kW range HID lamps, a breaker of 5A or similar is sufficient, and would probably trip faster if you connect a faulty ballast to it)