WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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HID, LPS, and preheat fluorescents forever!!!!!!
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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Multisubject
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"The only stupid question is the one left unasked"
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| Wow, that is impressive. I don't think that fire was likely to spread (unless the flaming plastic was dripping onto something flammable), but it was very close to a sprinkler which could heat up and go off. Not a fun situation, that could have been a lot worse.
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Public Lamp Spec Sheet | More Info
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Lightingeye60
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| This is the reason why plastic refractors shouldn’t be used on MH fixtures. All MH fixtures should have a glass refractor. Assuming these were 250 or 400 watts.
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WorldwideHIDCollectorUSA
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HID, LPS, and preheat fluorescents forever!!!!!!
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| Otherwise, these fixtures should use open rated lamps with arc tube shrouds.
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Desire to collect various light bulbs (especially HID), control gear, and fixtures from around the world.
DISCLAIMER: THE EXPERIMENTS THAT I CONDUCT INVOLVING UNUSUAL LAMP/BALLAST COMBINATIONS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES.
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Lightingeye60
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| Yes, and I also think all metal halide fixtures should have a GLASS refractor. Using a plastic refractor on a metal halide fixture is stupid to begin with. Plastic refractors should only be used in MV or HPS fixtures or lower wattage.
But yes, using a protected lamp might’ve prevented this.
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dor123
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Other loves are printers/scanners/copiers, A/Cs
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| I thought all low bay fixtures are made from glass rather than plastic.
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I"m don't speak English well, and rely on online translating to write in this site. Please forgive me if my choice of my words looks like offensive, while that isn't my intention.
I only working with the international date format (dd.mm.yyyy).
I lives in Israel, which is a 220-240V, 50hz country.
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SoxFtw
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"If it's stupid and it works, it ain't stupid."
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Yes, and I also think all metal halide fixtures should have a GLASS refractor. Using a plastic refractor on a metal halide fixture is stupid to begin with. Plastic refractors should only be used in MV or HPS fixtures or lower wattage.
But yes, using a protected lamp might’ve prevented this.
Yes, and specially so in a lamp burning BASE UP. If I had a say in the matter, it would be glass/porcelain for any lamp >100W. Metal halides have the greatest risk of non-passive failure so using flammable palstic right next to it doesn't seem too bright.
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Survivor of photokeratitis  KeepAndroidOpen.org
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Laurens
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| How coincidental! I just DM'd a forums member who i hold in high esteem about how to deal with (small) exploding MH lamps (James), that i want to use inside my house. I have a few specific ones i want to use, instead of the ones that are designed to fail safe in open luminaires, because of their technical peculiarities not found in the fail safe ones. For protection 4mm tempered glass panes he recommended, or quarz tube but that is likely very expensive. My goal is to just be able to hang it from the ceiling. A glass box with overlapping panes will be suitable for that. Only issue is that tempered glass is even harder to cut than normal stuff...
E: with regards to that video - it is why in many countries polystyrene thermal isolation is not allowed for overhead use (like roof isolation). Even if it is self extinguishing, it oozes hot, possibly still burning sticky messes of plastic that are incompatible with human skin.
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« Last Edit: Today at 12:29:22 PM by Laurens »
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