Hi all, I would like to let you know that I have anxiety, OCD, and panic attacks. I am gradually accepting this as part of who I am and disclosing it to people I know. I've dealt with anxiety and OCD since I was a young child. The past two and a half years, I've began to have occasional panic attacks, which are really scary and uncomfortable, and often leave me feeling physically ill. With all that's going on in the world right now, and stress that I'm dealing with individually, I had a panic attack yesterday at work. I'm doing okay today and I'm finding ways to manage these episodes.

It seems like some days I worry about EVERYTHING. In order to tame my anxiety and bring myself to a better state of mind, I do the following:

Stop what I'm doing and go someplace alone.
Take my medicine.
Listen to relaxing music.
Pray.
Focus on things I'm thankful for.
Focus on enjoyable hobbies and interests (i.e. lighting and cars)

I will say that lighting and a site like LG is a blessing for me to enjoy a unique interest with other likeminded people 

Anyone have any advice or memories of their own struggles? After reaching out to a few people, I've found I am not alone in this battle and that many people are actually very understanding and compassionate.

I know how you feel bro! I have Autism and suffer the same kind of way as you. I know, it’s horrible! I had a panic attack in Hospital while I was having my Blood test, and when I got back to the car, I felt really dizzy, nauseated, everything around me sounded fuzzy, hard to breathe and floppy dead arms. It was traumatic. I also have ultra sensitive hearing, and I have a mini fridge in my bedroom! I’m kicking at the thing to make it shut up! Hope you get better, kindest Regards Fox

I would say unless you plan on burning through them all, getting one cooler lamp is better than four meh lamps. But I am more of a utilitarian person.

My late father used the Radio Shack kit to connect to my alarm clock to the kit to activate the bed vibrator.  I'm currently using the Sonic Boom as shown at My Nightstand at my new Home.

A piece of circuit reverse engineered around the buzzer will help, or at least a board photo. The buzzer may be passive, driven by some pulse series from the chip, or active DC driven with internal oscillator. In the case of passive buzzer, some simple peak rectifier circuit needs to be hacked to keep MOSFET or solid state relay or whatever input steady.

Do you have an oscilloscope?

So a while ago, I posted on fluorescent under cabinet lights for my laundry room. But now that I’m ready to buy the fixtures, I have a question. There is a 33 inch model, and a 42 inch, but if I bought two 33 inch I would fill basically the entire length underneath. But if I bought one 42 inch, I would have maybe 6 to 8 inch’s of unlit space on each side. Is it better to get two smaller fixtures, or one bigger one?

For the clock control chip it would either be some microcontroller with a proprietary firmware, so datasheet won't help you to get the functional description.
Or it would be a some clone of one of the common LED clock chip like LM8560 or similar (they differ in display configuration - the most recent and most commonly used I remember the LM8560 has a two common cathode "duplex" display, the earlier chips I have seen jut in datasheet used single common cathode)
What backup battery it uses? 3V or 9V?
What display it uses? LED or LCD? Is it multiplexed?

As far as I remember, (at least for the EU market) the "4100K" standard flew out of the window with the introduction of triphosphors in the 80's, when the rated CCT became 4000K.

And I don't think it makes that much an effect, mainly compare to what the uneven room furniture/paint color scheme does - I had a pair of 4000K tubes in a kitchen, but the cabinet door were painted red. It looked like there were different tubes in the fixture, just what the reflected red from the cabinet did when reaching the fixture. And I was even able to even that out by using one tube of 3500K and the second of 4000K.
And needed to be said, in fact I was the only one who was bothered by it at all ( tell me something about the lighting bug  ) and it was not my kitchen, so I put back the originals, after all the lamps were not the culprit and it was not that bad, I just noticed it...

So I don't think 4100 vs 4000K would be that much of a problem, I would guess a bit of dust collected on/in the fixtures and the unevenness effects would be way worse even with tubes exactly the same...

In other words it is the time needed for the filaments to warm up to a temperature enough to even initiate the ionization.
And as mentioned, it is not just about the ballasts alone, it is really a combination of the ballast OCV (so combination of ballast step up ratio and the actual mains voltage), the lamp properties, temperature, lamp surface contamination, the exact design and even tolerances of the fixture and the lamp position (the fixture metal work is acting as an external capacitively coupled electrode for the lamp), whether the fixturfe is properly grounded,...

Rapid start doesn't mean instant start though so keep that in mind. 

There is a S-like curve between lamp ignition voltage and cathodes temperature (which depends on preheat voltage and time). Lamp starts to glow when OCV is above this curve. Curve shape depends on a lamp type, exact lamp sample, grounded objects around and even glass surface resistance. And of course different ballasts will have different OCVs. Later ignition is beneficial on the lifetime as the lamp spends less time in glow discharge, but the risk of overall ignition fail increases.