wide-lite 1000
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| I just bought a N.O.S. 2016 1000W Wide-Lite F-series reflector housing assembly . All I need now is to buy one of the many 1000w Wide-Lite ballast assemblies on eBay and I'll have a complete fixture !
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suzukir122
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| Just bought two Philips F20T12 Cool White (non-Alto, grey end capped) lamps, as well as one Sylvania GTE Cool White F20T12 lamp, from Ebay... both for my upcoming light tables for my upstairs loft. The remaining Philips F20T12 will be used as a replacement lamp.
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Interests: 1. Motorcycles, Cars, Women, and Lighting (especially fluorescent) 2. Weightlifting/staying extremely athletic 3. Severe Thunderstorms of all kinds 4. Food and drinks. So gimme them bbq ribs Lighting has ALWAYS been a passion of mine. I consider everyone on here to be a friend
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Emersyn
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| Nice
I checked the power ratings on my dimming ballast to see if F34s raise its power consumption at all.
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wide-lite 1000
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Today I went on a roadtrip to pick up a Infranor 1000w MH flood light I found on Marketplace . The drive was roughly 2 hrs. each way . Photos soon . This thing is absolutely HUGE !!! It's the biggest floodlight I own ! 
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suzukir122
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| I forgot to post this, but just bought a GE Ecolux Cool White F20T12 a couple days ago. *Might* be purchasing a GE Halophosphate 3500k F20T12, but more than likely may skip out on that purchase. There's a good chance I may use that Ecolux and one of my F20T12's from Philips, for my light tables instead... and then I'll use my Sylvania GTE and the other F20T12 as replacements. Maybe. lol Really interested to see how that GTE performs with the cold temp Trigger Start ballast though. Today I did an inspection on all of my living room F30T12's... checked all the ends for any additional end blackening. All ends have a slight bit of fair-weather end blackening, but I've noticed that one of my Sylvania Supersavers has a slight bit of "spot" end blackening developing... very normal of Sylvania lamps to do this after a good amount of use has been put into them. One of my Sylvania F30T12's in my loft, is also doing this as well, on the etch side. At this point though both situations are very slight... not dense. My lone Sylvania Cool White F15T12 also has a very slight bit of end blackening occurring as well. I still have yet to post that lamp on Lighting Gallery.
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Interests: 1. Motorcycles, Cars, Women, and Lighting (especially fluorescent) 2. Weightlifting/staying extremely athletic 3. Severe Thunderstorms of all kinds 4. Food and drinks. So gimme them bbq ribs Lighting has ALWAYS been a passion of mine. I consider everyone on here to be a friend
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wide-lite 1000
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| Today I removed the Original ballast and caps from my Infranor Series 85 flood light as it is 277v ONLY . I plan of keeping the original gear as part of the collection as it is in pristine shape , WAY to nice to scrap or sell ! The original ballast is HUGE and made by Sylvania .
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« Last Edit: April 21, 2026, 12:20:18 AM by wide-lite 1000 »
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suzukir122
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| Just obtained my two F20T12 Grey end capped Philips lamps, and my Sylvania GTE lamp, all three Halophosphate Cool White. Swapped out both of the LPF Trigger Start ballasts that came with the F20T12 fixtures I've got, for the cold temp versions, successfully. I was in the middle of comparing the brightness levels of the LPF and HPF ballasts at one point though, but that was short lived... found out the hard way that not only are both of my F20T12 Philips lamps used, one of them was actually right at EOL. The end blackening did not indicate this, but then again, both lamps have electrode filament shield guards. The lamp that went EOL was actually on my HPF Trigger Start ballast as it did so. Rough start up, with very bright filament glow as soon as the lamp fired up successfully. The filament hotspot glow disappeared for a while, so I automatically assumed it was a broken filament. Wrong... the filament was still intact but completely spent... so, complete hotspot movement occurred, the end blackened completely, and the lamp went EOL. Brilliant orange flashing at the bad end as expected... but it dimmed down to start-up stage, just like any other HPF Rapid Start ballast. Not much flash with this lamp. Switched the EOL lamp over to the LPF ballast and not surprisingly, it just sits there and rectifies... nothing more. To my surprise, the brightness level of the LPF Trigger Start ballast was almost comparable to the HPF cold temp Trigger Start ballast, but of course, the HPF one was still a tad bit brighter.
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Interests: 1. Motorcycles, Cars, Women, and Lighting (especially fluorescent) 2. Weightlifting/staying extremely athletic 3. Severe Thunderstorms of all kinds 4. Food and drinks. So gimme them bbq ribs Lighting has ALWAYS been a passion of mine. I consider everyone on here to be a friend
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suzukir122
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Alright... so some bad news... during my brainless search for one of my GE PAR38 self ballasted CMH's, I searched for it in one of my closets. I Picked up an EOL LED bulb that had been sitting on my shelf in the closet... I took that out of my porch light a little while ago. The LED bulb slipped out of my hand... and fell on the Sadelite desk lamp that was sitting on the floor in that closet, shattering one of my PL-L 36w tubes. It's been a while since I've broken a lamp... so there you go. It happened. I finally broke one of my fluorescent lamps. I will never let that happen again. EVER again.  Side note: my newest light project is already complete. I'm running four GE 23w PAR38 self ballasted CMH's in my bathroom, as up-lighting, with the help of 4 rotational sockets I found on Ebay.
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Interests: 1. Motorcycles, Cars, Women, and Lighting (especially fluorescent) 2. Weightlifting/staying extremely athletic 3. Severe Thunderstorms of all kinds 4. Food and drinks. So gimme them bbq ribs Lighting has ALWAYS been a passion of mine. I consider everyone on here to be a friend
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RyanF40T12
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| Converted 6 4 lamp fluorescent fixtures over from 4100K T8 fft to LED ballast bypass 3500K. Also changed a few bad ballasts.
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Laurens
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| Bought a rather large CFL for a fellow member. 200w, 2700k.
Must have been for high bay lighting but i've never seen these actually in use. Especially not in 2700k.
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suzukir122
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@Laurens...  That is now the highest wattage CFL I've ever heard of thus far.
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Interests: 1. Motorcycles, Cars, Women, and Lighting (especially fluorescent) 2. Weightlifting/staying extremely athletic 3. Severe Thunderstorms of all kinds 4. Food and drinks. So gimme them bbq ribs Lighting has ALWAYS been a passion of mine. I consider everyone on here to be a friend
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Laurens
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| I know right! It is a pretty cool thing to have, but i have no purpose for big bright lights so when i saw it i texted Marcel.
Found out that they are meant for weed growing operations, heh. Not the first time i find grow ops leftovers at thrift shops.
These things are available in 6500k and 2700k, where the 6500k one is blue-heavy for the growing phase, and 2700k as marketed as red-heavy for the flowering phase.
You can still find them at some shops if you search for electrox 200w.
I looked at it with my spectrometer. It seems to be a completely conventional triphosphor lamp, so actually also just perfectly fine for highbay use if for some reason you want a lot of decent quality warm white light, but don't like metal halide lamps. Maybe the green is slightly lower than usual but i have to re-do that measurement. The little garden is fine for approximations but isn't the greatest measuring tool.
My best guess is that they marketed these as a cheaper alternative to HPS. HPS was very common in grow ops too, but inevitably you gotta use expensive drivers or ballasts. Illegal grow ops need to be essentially disposable, in case you have to get the hell out and leave all your expensive stuff behind.
In another thrift shop i found some of the really cheap sheet metal fixtures for 600w hps. Didn't buy those, though now i regret it, would've been fun to have such a bright thing. Oh well, maybe another grow op gives their spare lamps and fixtures away to the thrift shop in a few months. Today they of course use LEDs. Much less heat, less easy to spot with thermal imaging.
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« Last Edit: July 25, 2026, 03:51:24 PM by Laurens »
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suzukir122
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| Slid my two balcony lights in my living room further apart from each other. Such a slight change, yet, the result is actually much better than I thought it would be.
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Interests: 1. Motorcycles, Cars, Women, and Lighting (especially fluorescent) 2. Weightlifting/staying extremely athletic 3. Severe Thunderstorms of all kinds 4. Food and drinks. So gimme them bbq ribs Lighting has ALWAYS been a passion of mine. I consider everyone on here to be a friend
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suzukir122
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| Just bought a 5-step ladder, and a Therm-O-Matic X ballast. I've got a plan to replace both the ballasts in my F30T12 two lamp strips on my balcony, to Therm-O-Matic X ballasts, hopefully. I've been eyeing that fixture to the right, and it does kinda look like the light output from it isn't as high as I want it to be, compared to all of the others. That fixture contains one of my first non Therm-O-Matic 446-LR-TC-P ballasts I've bought, and even when I bought it new old stock back in 2022, I noticed that light output wasn't as good with that ballast. This has been driving me crazy, so I'm replacing it with a slightly used Therm-O-Matic X ballast I found on Ebay just now. The other balcony light contains the most used ballast of all 11 fixtures in my living room -- tons of burnt spots on the ballast label. Though the ballast works fine and lights up lamps fairly well, I'm gonna go ahead and replace that ballast too, as soon as I buy another Therm-O-Matic X ballast. I'm trying to limit purchasing Therm-O-Matic... (the ones without the "X,") since those ones may contain PCB's.
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Interests: 1. Motorcycles, Cars, Women, and Lighting (especially fluorescent) 2. Weightlifting/staying extremely athletic 3. Severe Thunderstorms of all kinds 4. Food and drinks. So gimme them bbq ribs Lighting has ALWAYS been a passion of mine. I consider everyone on here to be a friend
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