I just bought a N.O.S. 2016 1000W Wide-Lite F-series reflector housing assembly . All I need now is to buy one of the many 1000w Wide-Lite ballast assemblies on eBay and I'll have a complete fixture !

Just bought two Philips F20T12 Cool White (non-Alto, grey end capped) lamps, as well as one Sylvania GTE Cool White F20T12 lamp, from Ebay... both for my upcoming light tables for my upstairs loft. The remaining Philips F20T12 will be used as a replacement lamp.

Nice

I checked the power ratings on my dimming ballast to see if F34s raise its power consumption at all.

 Today I went on a roadtrip to pick up a Infranor 1000w MH flood light I found on Marketplace . The drive was roughly 2 hrs. each way . Photos soon . This thing is absolutely HUGE !!! It's the biggest floodlight I own ! 

I forgot to post this, but just bought a GE Ecolux Cool White F20T12 a couple days ago. *Might* be purchasing a GE Halophosphate 3500k F20T12, but more
than likely may skip out on that purchase. There's a good chance I may use that Ecolux and one of my F20T12's from Philips, for my light tables instead...
and then I'll use my Sylvania GTE and the other F20T12 as replacements. Maybe. lol
Really interested to see how that GTE performs with the cold temp Trigger Start ballast though.
Today I did an inspection on all of my living room F30T12's... checked all the ends for any additional end blackening. All ends have a slight bit of
fair-weather end blackening, but I've noticed that one of my Sylvania Supersavers has a slight bit of "spot" end blackening developing... very normal
of Sylvania lamps to do this after a good amount of use has been put into them. One of my Sylvania F30T12's in my loft, is also doing this as well,
on the etch side. At this point though both situations are very slight... not dense.
My lone Sylvania Cool White F15T12 also has a very slight bit of end blackening occurring as well. I still have yet to post that lamp on Lighting Gallery.

 Today I removed the Original ballast and caps from my Infranor Series 85 flood light as it is 277v ONLY . I plan of keeping the original gear as part of the collection as it is in pristine shape , WAY to nice to scrap or sell ! The original ballast is HUGE and made by Sylvania .

Just obtained my two F20T12 Grey end capped Philips lamps, and my Sylvania GTE lamp, all three Halophosphate Cool White.
Swapped out both of the LPF Trigger Start ballasts that came with the F20T12 fixtures I've got, for the cold temp versions, successfully.
I was in the middle of comparing the brightness levels of the LPF and HPF ballasts at one point though, but that was short lived... found
out the hard way that not only are both of my F20T12 Philips lamps used, one of them was actually right at EOL. The end blackening did not
indicate this, but then again, both lamps have electrode filament shield guards.
The lamp that went EOL was actually on my HPF Trigger Start ballast as it did so. Rough start up, with very bright filament glow as soon as
the lamp fired up successfully. The filament hotspot glow disappeared for a while, so I automatically assumed it was a broken filament. Wrong...
the filament was still intact but completely spent... so, complete hotspot movement occurred, the end blackened completely, and the lamp went EOL.
Brilliant orange flashing at the bad end as expected... but it dimmed down to start-up stage, just like any other HPF Rapid Start ballast. Not much
flash with this lamp.
Switched the EOL lamp over to the LPF ballast and not surprisingly, it just sits there and rectifies... nothing more.
To my surprise, the brightness level of the LPF Trigger Start ballast was almost comparable to the HPF cold temp Trigger Start ballast, but of
course, the HPF one was still a tad bit brighter.