Should I just rewire it like in the image of my OV-25 before restoration?

Without any test equipment, it would be very very hard to tell what goes where. I truly would not know how to proceed if I were in your situation.

Anyone? I really want to get this up and running before I get the housing back from powder coating.

The ballast is in two images on my gallery. One before varnishing and one during varnishing. I don't own any metering equipment at the moment.

A ballast with 124/240 input should only have three primary connections (COM, 120V, 240V), so five in total including the two lamp wires. I am confused as to why there would be six terminals.

Whichever two wires have the least resistance (pretty much zero) are likely to be the two COM wires, other than that, it gets a little more difficult to identify. Do you have an inductance meter?

Do you have a picture of the ballast?

No worries mate!

Thanks Tom. 

I'm way late... a meet up definitely would've been cool. I couldn't join since I'm limited to driving my custom sportcar as of now until I purchase
a daily car early next year. I live in Ohio. Georgia is quite the drive but definitely worth it if it meant I met fellow lighting enthusiasts.
I'm *hoping** to do a meet up as well sometime soon, possibly next year, once I get my 100% T12 lit living room completely ready.

Mostly to do a floor test lol. Can you help me rewire my OV-25? I want to make sure that the ballast will still work and if my capacitor will be compatible. It is an XFRMR 2 winding ballast with a 120/240 volt input. I'm using a single 30uF capacitor rated at 400 or 450 VAC. The wire colors that I got are red, yellow, black, and white. The ballast has six terminals (three on one side, three on another side).

So it goes down to some US-specific ballast behavior.

With regular HPS Euro series chokes or HX transformers, 3.25A mercury compatible MH lamp will get somewhat overloaded, but not up to 4A due to higher arc voltage, guess something like ~3.7A current. Ballast itself of course will run colder because of lower than nameplate current.

CWA ballast though has a chance to push the lamp a bit further due to current-stabilizing behavior. BUT I heard that HPS CWAs load curve is specially tamed not to overdrive aging HPS lamps with rising working voltage and not to force them into cycling. So it may be not that bad, actually.