other countries are strange, here you can drink beer from 14 years on with parents consent and from 16 without… By 21 When americans start in Germany tge worst is already over 

However i was told that in a uk pub you could fancy a pint from 12 years old with parents consent, however these times seem to be over

Yeah, down here, it's 18 without parental consent and maybe 15-16 with. I know plenty of under 18s who drink, all you need to do is be able to handle your drinks.

@RyanF40T12 Thank you.

@SussexEuroSOX, It will be a little while before I give this idea a try, but I will, as soon as my oven situation is taken care of. I can't wait.
@wide-lite 1000, St.louis... that's ironic because I use to live in St.louis Missouri, for 9 years, before my family moved to Ohio in 2007.
8 out of 10 is a very high number, that food must have been very good! I will definitely give it a try as soon as I get my daily car.
lol... Columbus Ohio/Zanzi's will be a fairly easy drive!
I just had some Marcos Pizza not too long ago. That... gets an 8 out of 10. Very good pizza! I took a pic of it before I went nom nom.
I'll post that pic here soon.

I go to flea markets on occasion. Usually all I see is garbage, but I do sometimes find decent stuff on occasion. I once got four new old stock fluorescent wraparound light fixtures from 1995 at the one near me for pretty cheap. And I will second the fact that flea markets seemingly have the same sellers every time you go. You really have to go to different markets just to get any sort of variety. Also, I think flea markets are not always the best place to go if you are specifically looking for vintage/OOP items. I have been to some where the majority or all of the sellers are selling brand new items; it’s not like a thrift store or antique shop where most of the items are old.

The same goes for garage/estate sales. I go on occasion, but when I do, all I really find is junk. I have found a handful of decent items at such sales like a NIB GE G40 incandescent light bulb from the 1990s and an old Ray-O-Vac fluorescent lantern from the 1980s, but otherwise nothing crazy. I guess it depends on the sale, but most of the ones I’ve been to had nothing of interest to me. And similarly, there’s no guarantee that you will find anything vintage or OOP. It might be a bunch of junk from 10 years ago, or maybe you’ll find something old. It depends on the sale.

Took out a GE MVR150/U/MED metal halide bulb that went kablooey inside.  either at EOL or due to some other failure.  The tube wasn't very black..  Put in a LU150/med temporarily until new MH bulb arrives. 

replaced all the broken lens covers in my post above, and also replaced a ballast that had a screw driven thru it from up in the attic 

Pennsylvania (Emporium, Wellsboro, Williamsport, Brookville), Massachusetts (Danvers, Salem), Maine (Waldoboro), Virginia (Spotsylvania County), and Rhode Island (Central Falls)

Another evidence the ancient Egyptians had an electrical power grid with pylons

Can be expected, when they already had ram pumps, the water-circuit equivalent of a switching boost converter

i have never seen either

I have thought of another case, assume a luminaire with the lamp standing vertically cap down, and with bad sealing or temperature differences and condensation, there are drips falling onto the lamp. A lamp with a dimple may collect the water during the day, but even then the warm up is slow enough that the water will just evaporate without any other consequences

(And sure nobody would be looking into E vs ED difference for this case anyway)

(And the bigger problem will be the water flowing around the lamp and into the socket, where it may lead to a short, not water on the lamp)

I like RRK's suggestion

Without much hacking, i think a 3 phase meter might be used as-is (as long as it is not too smart and won't care about phase angles)

Connect one phase to plain L from the wall for powering the circuitry, and the other to the ballast output with the lamp on the load side. It may complain about a brownout, but will have full supply voltage from the 1st phase so gotta be able to work

For the ignition, use a ballast independent (superimposed) ignitor after the meter, and after the lamp started disconnect and bypass it to eliminate it's losses from the measurements